Dana in Ghana

Hello my name is Dana and I'm spending half a year as a volunteer in Ghana. Come follow my journey!

EndPlasticSoup

All my projects are supported by the EndPlasticSoup Initiative by Rotary, also supported by Rotaract & Interact Clubs. This global initiative has set its goal to fight all environmental plastic pollution until 2050. More detailed information can be found on their website, which linked under their name, in multiple languages. Anyone can support their mission.

Week 1 in Ghana

Week 2 in Ghana: Sunyani

Week 3 in Ghana: Sunyani

Week 4 in Ghana: Tamale

Week 5 in Ghana: Tamale

Week 6 in Ghana: Tamale

Week 7 in Ghana: Tamale

Week 8 in Ghana: Tamale

I'm leaving on a jetplane

14.10.2024

When I heard the sound of the alarm clock this morning it sounded like the meanest thing I've ever heard. Because it meant that I was going to leave. My boyfriend was laying next to me in the hotel bed and we looked at each other and curled up crying. It was as if only now it dawned upon me what I had decided to do. Spending half a year and leaving all my loved ones behind. Quite dramatic, really.
We had a sad little breakfast at the hotel and the room looked straight out of a Berlin artistic movie about the way of life. Very old-school, but still a bit welcoming. Afterwards we made our way to the airport and after having a little argument with an SUV-driver who called us "incredibly rude" for being there before him and thus taking the free parking lot, we arrived at the check-in.  
This is also where I met Samuel the first time. He's the guy I'm gonna spend about two months with, here in Ghana. We got along pretty well, as he is a nice and funny person. I said goodbye to my parents and my boyfriend, quickly setting up an agreement not to break up, just because I was going to be abroad (phew, what couples do out of love). Then we made our way up into the airport's labyrinth and through the always intimidating security check. Is it just me or do airports just always make one feel as if they were doing something wrong?

Our first flight was going to Rome, nothing quite notable happened, we landed safely and then had to wait a bit for unboarding, because there were some technical difficulties. We overcame that clearly and then went on a whole journey that brought us to our next gate and the flight to Accra.

The flight took almost six hours and I had a very nice lady sitting next to me who told me I was going to love Ghana and gave me some good advice. I played several games and watched a movie on the screen inserted into the seat in front of me. The lady next to me smiled at me every once in a while when I voiced an excited "Wow!" every time the sand under us changed its appearance. I took a ton of photos of the desert and the sky, I believe we once even saw a sandstorm, because I could see dusty clouds on the ground that looked nothing like the other clouds around us and the pilot told us to fasten our seatbelts. My own behaviour made me feel a bit childish, but I was too excited to really care.
After a few hours we got a really yummy meal, with pasta, focaccia and mozarrella - another reason why it was a good idea to fly with the Italians. Later I took my malaria prophylaxis and the closer we got to our destination, the more it hit me that I wasn't gonna see my boyfriend for half a year and I started crying a bit. I felt like a weaker version of myself and started missing the strength I had felt when he was still around me. Hence I used the 30min free wifi ITA Airways provided and messaged my friends and my family and texted my boyfriend that I missed him already. Afterwards I decided not to be sad and played a bit Angry Birds, which I failed miserably.

When we arrived in Accra, people started to applause and as soon as I went out of the door the warmth and humidity hit me, causing immediate sweat. I sensed a smell of adventure when a flight attendand said in a movie-like tone: "Welcome to Accra!"

I have to say that my first impression of the city was very intimidating and overwhelming, I could feel the dirtyness of the air in my lungs and everything seemed so narrow and crowded that it make me feel unsafe, but we got picked up at the airport by Beatrice who I was gonna stay with. She brought me to my own little room, after Samuel and I got an "overpriced" (it was still cheap, we just didn't haggle) SIM-card and finally entered an uber. 
I crawled under my mosquito net after I got ready for bed, then I texted everyone good night and fell into a very unrelaxed sleep.
One part of me couldn't believe I was there and the other one was way too overwhelmed to process.

Hey Blondie! - Flynn Rider

15.-16.10.24

The first day in Accra I didn't really do much. The flight exhausted me so much, that I ended up pretty much laying around all day. Later Beatrice and I cooked together and it was fun. Also the food tasted really good. In the morning I had tried Ghanaian peanut butter the first time and it was so rich and yummy I could've eaten it just on its own (nonetheless I ate it with bread).
Beatrice had had a dentist appointment earlier in the day but in the afternoon she took me outside and showed me around the neighbourhood. People were so friendly, the children looked at me shy and smiling, especially when I waved at them. Some of them stared at me and giggled. The women gave me many compliments about my looks, I didn't ever hear I was pretty before so often. (They themselves looked breathtaking too and they had the brightest and most honest smiles.) The men asked me why I didn't bring them money in a joking way, because being European means I'm rich apparently (I cannot lie, the euro is very strong compared to the cedi).
They all laughed and smiled with a radiant energy. 
Some little children were talking about me behind my back, I think they called me Obruni - which means as much as white person - and an older guy with glasses said to them: "No that's a white lady! Say hello to the white lady!" 
And they proceeded to say: "Hello white lady! White lady!"
Another girl even giggled a bit when looking at me "so white", I nodded at her and laughed "Yes, indeed!". I mean what can I say? I'm whiter than most of my white friends already and I never catch a tan, I'm probably looking like a prime example of a white person to the children. Especially because I was wearing a white skirt, that was the perfect subject for comparison.
There was also a nice woman and she was the one that I specially kept in mind, because I've never seen a woman with such unique features before, that showed me her baby girl and said: "She's like you, just from Ghana!" Everyone laughed. The baby had the lightest skin out of all of them.

After meeting the people in Beatrice's area I felt way more confident and comfortable than the day of my arrival, so the next day I faced a new challenge: taking an Uber.
Taking an Uber is something I had avoided back in Europe, because it had seemed unsafe to me, ironically it is probably the safest tool of transport here in Ghana. People don't scam you with the prices, unlike taxis and also your location is seen online, together with the data of the driver.
I was driving to the city center to meet Samuel and when I arrived at his hostel (after a very quiet drive, because either me being white confused/intimidated the driver or it was just the language barrier, because even if they speak English, Ghanaian people of course prefer their own language, which in Accra might be Twi as I learned), I shamelessly used the wifi there for a quick whatsapp-call with my boyfriend.
After that was done we took an Uber to the bus station, where a bus would take Samuel and me to Sunyani the next day, together with Karin a woman from Frankfurt. 
We continued to visit the Makola Market, taking a Trotro. Those are vans that have been stripped of their interior and had it replaced with benches. For a small price they take you around the city. Some children came as beggars to the window, with mischievous smiles. It hurt to realize that they weren't just talking to us and waving, as other children did, but actively asking for money, food and drinks.
The streets were completely filled with vendors. They called me pretty and shouted "Hey Blondie" or made hissing sounds to gain attention. Some would follow us around.

We took a break and I ate some jollof rice in a comparably quiet corner and then made our way to an art market. On the way we saw a Rotary Club bus stop, I didn't expect to see their logo in Africa even though I knew they were active here. It was a pleasant surprise and I took a picture.
On the art market vendors would take us to see their shops, they didn't let go of us for an hour, calling us friends, "Team Dortmund" because of the German soccer club. Apparently they tried to lure us in by referring to German culture.
With one, who was playing instruments, I improvised a little song and they took a video.
I had a magic little moment within the roofed art market, when Karin and Samuel were haggling over some Shea butter. A nice young lady offered me a seat and when I told her I was traveling and couldn't buy her prints, she immediately kindly accepted. 
I made her a compliment about her looks, she was wearing ripped blue jeans, a green hawaii shirt and had short dreads that were bleached up to my hair colour in the ends. She told me she loved my hair, I said that it looked just like hers in the bleached parts, she said it wasn't natural and I said it still suited her well. She was talking unusually quiet and soft and was not demanding. It felt for the first time as if there would have been potential for a connection between us, but it didn't come so far, since we left and our small chitchat didn't ask for exchanging numbers and staying in touch.
Back at Beatrice's place I took my first ever "shower" in Africa: she filled a huge bucket of water for me and gave me a little one to pour the water over my body. I had to develop a special technique to get the shampoo out of my hair and after that was done I went back to sleep.

 


Country roads

17.10.24

I got up at 4:30 in the morning. It was the first and only time I got awake before the muezzin and the rooster in front of my window. Also the crows weren't there yet. It felt like a win. They had woken me every morning.In my bathroom there was a mosquito, but I escaped it and grabbed my mosquito spray which caused it to immediately fly away.

I said goodbye to Beatrice and we took some photos together. 
Afterwards my Uber arrived and he was the nicest driver out of all I had met. He talked to me about Germany and Ghana and smiled a lot, he was so honest and friendly, it warmed my heart. We laughed a lot together and he asked me, if Germany was a good country to immigrate. I had to be honest, Germany is reportedly known to be quite racist and thus avoided by foreign workers, the language is hard to learn, there are only few people who will support you and your qualifications are worth less without possibilities to educate yourself up to German standards. Living there is nice, but I don't know if immigrating is worth all the complications. I have huge respect for people who make it, but it is very hard and society nowadays tends to be non-welcoming, so I couldn't recommend it to him.
After overcoming this unpleasant topic we chitchatted even more and then arrived. He told me he was there for me and had all the time for me and helped me with my luggage.
After waiting for 2 and a half hours our (delayed) bus finally arrived, we got a bit harassed by a beggar, when we walked towards the bus. He especially followed me and was grabbed by his collar by the workers and taken away. 
Now followed a 13 hour ride through the countryside (that should've originally taken 7 hours).
After 30 minutes or so, the driver pulled out a screen over the front window and started playing Nigerian soaps (for ten hours in total!!!), with the story writing and acting of an average Hilf mir! Episode. Slowly turning mad, Samuel and I watched the tropical side of Ghana pass by the window. The forests of palms and other unfamiliar plants were only interrupted by small villages, often consisting of a group of huts.
Once in a while the bus would stop in the street due to traffic jams and women would get in that sold cool drinks or bread. Suddenly the whole bus would get into turmoil: the women (it were mostly women, often accompanied by their children - I noticed that in the bus but also on the streets, no husbands/fathers were to be seen) started shouting and money was handed through the bus, for them to be able to buy something.
Sometimes the passengers would also yell at the bus driver, showing him the directions and correcting him, as if that was a collective task.
When we finally arrived at night we straightly went to our hotel, but I immediately found a bed bug on my pillow and all in all the place didn't seem to hygienic. So we fled to a more expensive hostel, where a really sweet employee welcomed us. He seemed to be very excited to provide service to us and so finally, we could fall asleep.


I love my car - Queen

18.-19.10.24

Today was an exciting day. First off we met our regional Technology without Borders team and one of them - his name is Sylvester - took me with him on his motorbike. I was a bit scared, because I've never even sat on a motor bike, but just for me he drove really slow, which I found to be incredibly kind. We were to meet an important professor that would acknowledge our project. The professor himself funnily turned out to be in Germany at the moment, but we got to talk to his also very important wife and she welcomed us with water. She called me Daina (like Diana or such) and said she called all her friends named Diana "her beautyful lady". 


After that experience, our team: Anthony, Sylvester and Jed showed us their TwB container. They build it themselves, together with Dominik, another German TwB member who's a close friend to Samuel. They were rightfully proud of their work and showed us, how they planted plants like tomatoes in cut up plastic bottles and small containers, they also collected eco waste to create their own little compost. Also Sylvester had started collecting his own plastic waste.
Around the university campus on which the container is situated grow many trees and they're filled with huge bats that make funny sounds, like they're nagging each other or as if they were laughing about us. When I saw them first, I was stunned, because they were so big and loud.
Our team then showed us the recycling company (of which I'm gonna upload photos) in Sunyani. It is called Victory Hardware and going in, Samuel and I immediately started smiling brightly: this was the place where the magic happened. Seeing the whole recycling process in person was incredibly special and we were getting very enthusiastic and Samuel took tons of photos.
We also went to a school and talked to the assistant headmaster about our workshop. I noticed that the main core value of the school was Patriotism, which as a German seemed insanely strange to me.
Later we ate some jollof and fufu (I made a bit of a drama, by refusing to eat anything until I was sure there was no meat in it) at the university cafeteria and then got two visitors: Martina and Chiara, two German TwB members, who came from Berechum and would stay the night at our new hotel (we got a third one, since the more expensive one - 31€ - was overbooked). We spent the whole day talking about our projects, they were here for hospital support and exchanging experiences. Chiara who had been alone to South America seemed not to have the word "fear" in her vocabulary, Samuel and I were quite impressed how easy she took everything possibly dangerous in Ghana. 
Martina however had been bitten by dogs on one of her first days here and after she told us, we all started flinching whenever seeing one trotting in our direction. I mainly talked to her and we got into a really interesting, deep and longlasting conversation about how we perceived Ghanaian culture and people. We even started googeling to confirm our own perceptions. 
Weirdly enough the whole group of us had mixed feelings about our stay in Ghana, some because nothing reminded us of home, or because it really is a developing country, then because the sand gets everywhere and even if rooms got cleaned they weren't really clean. For me personally it was the very subtle way of me being treated differently from Samuel, because I was a woman. I felt like my personal boundaries weren't as respected as in Germany, starting from everyone taking my luggage out of my hands and walking away with it (technically that is very nice, but if they're a strange person, can't they just ask if I even need the help before running up to their taxi with all my belongings?), they never let me carry my things myself, even if I say that although it's so kind I don't need the help. Also some man was demanding my German phone number - not asking: demanding it. Generally I also got lots of comments about my looks and body, especially when wearing a skirt. As I said, those were very minor concerns but soon they would get proven as a random strange man hugged me without permission on the street, after I confirmed to him that I could speak French. That left all of us slightly shook. Since he had no mean intentions it was okay and I didn't make a fuss, but it did make me uncomfortable and I didn't know how to react.
After Chiara enjoyed some rice for dinner (it was a funny situaton, because we sat in a restaurant, all four of us vegetarians and Ghana doesn't really have any vegetarians), we went to meet with our team to drink something.
At the place a very dramatic situation then unfolded: we barely got to sit down as two men ran out of a taxi, shouting at each other and one started slapping the other's face. It turned out that the slapped one (a TwB member!) had taken a photo of the car, since the (high!) driver had scammed him. This had caused the driver to hit him, until he had difficulties to see with one eye.
Martina and I fully dived into the drama, especially when the (very late) police showed up and we were told that now whoever bribed them would get their support. The driver who in the meantime had run away later showed up again to bribe the police and stop them from taking his car away to the police station.
We observed, that the police, even though they wore military garments and had huge guns, weren't taken seriously. Some women even started another (verbal) fight, just for the drama (that seems to be a common practice here). 
Finally Jed bribed the police, since he wanted to protect our member and one officer was a friend of his and then we went to our hostel. On the way Jed sent the officer another 100 GHs so they could share the money equally. He was clearly agitated, talking about how Ghana was a country of law and justice. Kind of ironic since all of them confirmed the bribing of the police and the gatekeeping of state money by ministers for their own use.
The next day we browsed the city for waste bins and other materials we needed for our project. Samuel and I ate and drank some coconut. First the vendors open the coconut for you with a machete and you drink the coco water, afterwards they cut out the coconut flesh and you eat it. The day went by really fast.
At the hostel there waited an unpleasant surprise for me: my room had been overtaken by cockroaches. I went through all of my luggage to check if they had gotten in and then demanded a new room at the reception. Earlier in the day when I wanted to take a shower, there had also been a huge dead centipede laying in the shower. Now that suddenly more and more cockroaches had started spawning I was incredibely disgusted and not really able to sleep, my trust in the hotel was gone. Martina and Chiara who had stayed one night at the hotel too in a more expensive room, had also had a mouse running over the floor. Uneasy I called my boyfriend, who luckily was still awake (his sleep schedule is even more messed up than mine) and we talked until I felt calmed enough to finally lay down.

 


Plastic waste in bags ready to be recycled

A shredding machine at the recycling company

Plastic shreds being washed

Washed shredded plastic, ready to become pellets

Plastic pellets fresh out of the pellets machine

Plastic pellets right before being melted

Plastic pellet melting machine

The final product

Workers packaging the final product

The workers packaging the final product

We're on a mission from god - Elwood Blues

20.-22.10.24

On Sunday morning, Anthony took us to his church. I perceive this as some kind of an honour, because religion is very important in Ghana. We were way too underdressed for the occasion, Anthony wore a nice dress shirt, suit pants and nice loafers. We took a taxi and once we arrived the church was already overflowing. Especially the women with their gorgeous traditional gowns stood out to me.It was a catholic church, all the important people wore green robes with crosses on them. There was also a huge choir, dressed in red. The ceremony was very solemn, the bible was red and golden and the priest and all the boys carrying a golden cross and swinging the incense also bowed at the altar.

When the choir first sang they didn't hit the notes, but then they immediately caught themselves and suddenly there were drums and gospel and people started dancing and clapping and singing.
It occurred to me that church in Ghana was an emotional social event. Especially when the priest started talking about suffering being natural to Christians (human even), for example in marriage (girl, you can still divorce or discuss things out, I'm sorry, but faith shouldn't make you commit to unhappiness [I had to get this off my chest, sorry]), people were so touched that some (only men!) even shed a tear. I thought that in more patriarchal societies like Ghana, maybe church was the only place where feelings could be discussed, because patriarchy isn't really wanting people (especially men! See the connection) to talk about feelings. So maybe church, because being Christian doesn't break with traditional masculinity standards, is the only place to feel acknowledged and heard. But this is all just my perception (I am not catholic, so I have another opinion and perspective on this than Catholics might, it's just my personal analysis and observation, be kind).
The choir was rocking, when everyone in the church was told to get up and donate money to the church, this happened twice and you couldn't not go. You literally had to walk upfront to throw money in a wooden bucket and "ushers" would walk behind you, so you'd actually pay. Samuel and I made a mean joke, how the catholic church was still onto catholic things (manipulating money out of believers, like with the Ablassbriefhandel). Afterwards we had to walk up to the altar and introduces ourselves to the church. Anthony had to repeat all we said, because nobody understood our accent, the microphone that was given to us also didn't help.
When church was over, many people took photos in their fancy clothing, we did too. Suddenly a strange woman clung to my arm, she had seen me (the Obruni) and immediately taken the opportunity. She grinned at me, apparently very content with herself. It was a bit impudent, but also quite funny.
After we got to the hotel, the other members and we did actually want to meet, but they got so delayed, that Samuel and I straight went to our new hotel, the "Sheila's Executive".
In the evening, after we had worked for a while Anthony said: "Let's go, Dana is hungry!". It wasn't the first time he had said this specifically so I pretended to be a bit stupid and asked: "Why do you always say I'm hungry? Are you hungry yourself and want to hide it, by pointing on me?". He laughed and answered: "No, it's because women are always hungry."
"To be fair", I said "I like eating. But...". He continued: "No you know, men are strong. We don't need to eat, I sometimes forget eating, because I'm so focused on my work. But women always need to eat."
I let it slide that one time, because I was actually speechless and didn't know how to respond.
Sylvester had brought us some vegetarian fufu with egg in it, which we enjoyed. It was one of the best foods I've ever eaten. Fufu is just like dough. You eat it with soup and use your hands to separate small pieces from the fufu, dip it in the surrounding soup and then eat it without chewing. The broth was extremely flavourful and both Samuel and I were delighted. Sylvester then told us how to clean our hands afterwards. He took my hand in his and washed it. "This is how I would wash your hand, if you were a little girl."
I actually did feel little that evening. Belittled.
It didn't help that thousands of ants had landed this day and thrown of their wings. The whole ground was covered by wings and insects. When stepping out of the container Samuel and I suddenly felt the ants crawling on our feet. I was very unlucky, because I was wearing a skirt. First an ant bit my thigh, then my back and finally my breast. I was so focused on swiping the ants of my leg, that I slipped, because the ground got curved and almost fell into a ditch. Anthony, Sylvester and Samuel were quite worried, because I suddenly sat on my ass, only centimeters between me and the ditch. Luckily I wasn't hurt, but I felt as if this had been the last stab to the other's perception of me being weak or clueless.

On Monday we were getting around the town and I noticed three Rotary signs in total, which again was very surprising, because I had underestimated the Rotarian impact in Ghana.
Samuel, who had bought new shoes a few days ago, because his had gotten wet at a beach in Accra and I noticed many fake brands, for example: his shoes were from Adidas but also from Goretex and I remembered a traditional gown with the apple logo stitched into it as a decorative element, that I've seen on the way to Sunyani.
With the need to avoid eating rice again, I ordered a pizza at our hotels restaurant, that I wanted to share with Samuel (who did eat rice, but knew he wouldn't be full afterwards). We got to the restaurant and asked for a pizza on their menu with no ham. There happened some miscommunication, because we asked for no ham and simultaneously the employees wanted to tell us that they indeed had no ham at the moment. After dissolving it, they voiced a collective understanding "Oh". And there I made a mistake, I said: "Just no ham, everything else is fine."
What we found out over an hour later, was that they thought, I didn't mean everything else on the specific pizza I ordered was fine, but every topping they had. This resulted in Samuel and me trying to scrape of tons of small cut sausage pieces off of a large pizza and eventually going back and explaining the issue. Since we were really sorry and quickly understood where the misunderstanding had happened, no one was mad and we finally got the real pizza. We guessed that the employees probably ate the first one, since they smiled almost happily when we announced we wouldn't eat it.
Of course this wasn't all: Samuel spilled some juice on our shared balcony and when I went to get my money to pay, I slipped in front of the very nice employee and almost fell again.
I don't know where all of that bad luck came from.

When the hotel staff came the next day, to clean my room, I told them about a small ant problem (the ants were small) I had in my bathroom. As a response they said they would record that and sprayed my room with an amount of insecticide that made me avoid stepping in for hours and also made the mosquito that had bitten me four times already, decease.
This morning I would've initially had to visit some schools, but my stomach had a different opinion. I took some medicine and it immediately worked, but I couldn't find any more energy. I ate some spaghetti with Samuel (of course they had cabbage in them, like everything does here [and green pepper and carrots and cooked onion and garlic). Also I found a lizard (lizerd!!!) in my room, I grabbed the small guy with some toilet paper and put him on the balcony. Samuel and I decided that he was a nice little guy (a jolly nice fella) and the lizard was definitely too stunned to speak, as he didn't move for fifteen minutes. Suddenly it started raining heavily and it didn't stop until evening, where we had our first workshop!!!

We had decided to first implement our project at the Susec school in Sunyani. This is a big school with 3000 students and a huge amount of them also showed up. Anthony more or less improvised the workshop - which he did great looking at the fact (h)we had punctuality difficulties when we wanted to practice.
The crowd was amazed by his performance and also by Samuel and me apparently since they freaked out when we started speaking. Huge speakers would send an echoing "Shut up!" Sound effect through the hall, whenever the students got too loud. Some of them even dared to ask questions in the end, some of them trying to apply some critical thinking to our project (cringe, it's literally beneficial for everyone, plastic is not your friend gurl - I didn't actually think that, it was just a bit ridiculous to me that they behaved as if trying to expose a conspiracy when asking us "tricky" questions, that could easily be answered and just underlined our project). Over all the response was very positive, with the student representatives proudly declaring that "in the name of all students" they would take care of this project. Samuel and I were asked many questions, my feeling that many girls were crushing on him once again got proof (there's always many girls around him), some girls even wanted to become TwB members after school.
Especially when the students chanted "Stop plastic pollution!" in unison, I got the shivers. This felt like we were doing something great.
Sidenote: when giving students and headmasters there TwB "Environmental Ambassador" T-shirts, Samuel and I were always the ones, that had to hand them out and pose for a picture.


Radio Ga Ga

23.-24.10.24

This morning I woke up not feeling like myself. It was my boyfriend and mine monthly anniversary and my mood was clearly affected. So I chose to wear some funky cat socks, shorts and eyeliner, hoping I would feel more like myself.
I wanted to take a taxi, Samuel was already gone, to meet Jed at UENR. Sadly they were all already taken. In the meantime I was talking to a friend, she helped me very much with my mood.

Jed kindly told me he would pick me up and while he was making his way to my hotel, I started writing a letter to my boyfriend (hopeless romantic). When Jed arrived I asked him if it was possible to send a letter to Germany. Despite finding the request very funny he thought it was possible. 
We made ourselves on the way to the Twene Amanfu school where we talked to the headmaster and headmistresses and set a date for our workshop.
We then drove further to the city, because I had asked Jed where Samuel and I could potentially buy clothing (I'm sweating a lot here and clothes can break), he definitely advised us to go with a local. Not only did he show me where to buy customized traditional clothing, but he also brought me to Melcom - a supermarket. The Melcom was climatized and looked a bit like a compressed Aldi. The prices (for Ghanaian terms) were definitely skyrocketing, but I saw some Western foods like fake spaghetti. Jed and I were on the hunt for some chocolate that we could give out to the students at our workshop that asked questions. I found a big bag with 50 pieces of chocolate for 84GHs and called Samuel to confirm. Jed also showed me the first floor where you could find anything homeware, school items, toys and clothing. Not in the mood to purchase supermarket clothing we left the store, but first we had to get our purchases checked, our receipt signed and then also stamped by the staff. This is how precautious they were.
I definitely planned to return here with Samuel. Jed and I enjoyed a coconut and then made our way over the Sunyani Market, a weekly market that happened every Wednesday. I also planned to go there with Samuel the next week. On the way we realized that the appointment we had just made, overlapped with one Samuel had made, but luckily Samuel's school later called to arrange a new appointment. 
We then drove to Jed's new apartment, he wanted to sign some papers so he could move in. We proceeded to spend 2 hours there and the women he talked to (even though he said, they liked me) refused to speak English to me (one could only speak Twi, the other one said "She's here in Ghana, she needs to speak our language). After a while I started getting frustrated, because duh I'm not gonna learn your language on the spot just because you say I should (I googled, but there's almost no way to learn Ghanaian languages online, no matter which one).
After this was more or less done, Jed and I left to the UENR, where our regional group is situated. On the way he told me lots about his girlfriend who worked in a petroleum company always 30 days after another in different African countries and then came home one month for rest. While he focused on how hard it was to build a family under those circumstances, I couldn't get over the fact, that she worked through one month without any break (on the other hand, that meant 6months of rest/vacation a year, but after such an exhaustion, you probably cannot use your freetime in a nice way.)
We proceeded to go to the cafeteria and I ate a yummy pie, then Samuel came and we met Jed's boss Augusti, who turned out to be a very nice and polite person. He had started several sustainability projects which amazed Samuel and me.
We talked until it was fully dark outside (6pm) and then went back to the hotel.

On Thursday morning we got up really early because we were gonna be on the radio!!!
After speeding out of the hotel (we barely managed to devour some egg on toast and earned concerned glances from the employees), we met Anthony at the circle traffic. We took our next taxi to the radio station Moonlite fm, where some creepy men asked Samuel, if "she" was his girlfriend, to which he responded "yes" (he literally saved my ass, kudos - also to his girlfriend: please don't kill me this was an emergency lie ;-;). We laughed a bit about that and then we waited. The radio guy let us wait for more than half an hour after our designated time, then we got into the studio. While the rest of the house looked like it was barely holding together, the actual studio looked pretty nice. We sat on some chairs in front of three microphones and the guy introduced us first in his native language (probably Twi) and then started asking us questions in English. The whole thing was over in no time. He was really nice and interested and since Ghanaian people listen to the radio almost 24/7 this was a great promotion to our project. Sadly my German friends and family only received advertisements when trying to clock in online (with the positive side effect that none of them heard how my stuffed nose influenced my vocal performance). Nevertheless the guy continued to translate our answers for all the non-English-speakers and we left for our second workshop.
The workshop took place at the ODASS school, which was a bit remote but over all the cleanest and quietest school we've been to. The students wore purple and yellow and there were "You can socialize without sexualising" signs everywhere (what I had split feelings about, because 1. nice reminder 2. you need a reminder?!). We gathered all together in the dining hall, but we first had to wait for an hour, before our students and the projector we rented were set up.
When we entered the stage everything went wrong: the microphone sounded dull and while trying to fix the issue, the assigned students accidentally put on loud music that only got louder and louder as they were hurrying to shut it down. As ten minutes had passed, the music finally faded out, but when Anthony tried to proceed with the workshop, the microphone started howling and the music began to play again. The students laughed and sung with the music, they were clearly entertained. 
After everything was finally fixed, we did the workshop and I went out to reward all students with biscuits that asked a question (originally we wanted to use the chocolate, Jed and I had bought yesterday, but he forgot it, so him and Sylvester bought biscuits).
Samuel said something into the microphone and he wanted to give it to me, not knowing what to say and not understanding what he told me to say I declined. Anthony shouted from the back: "No, they wanna hear her speak!" 
The students rioted, so I took the mike and they cheered. I got some applause, as I thanked them for their support etc pp. 
After taking the obligatory pictures, we packed our stuff and left.
On the way I was stopped by a teacher who introduced a nice girl to me who wanted to be friends ("you got a friend here"), we talked a bit and I gave her my number. She said, she really liked what I had said and that I had been shy (in fact, I just didn't know what to say and then improvised, but regardless she was really sweet).
Next to Jed's car (today only two doors still worked by the way) we took a picture with a larger group of girls and then separate. Some of them girls were really reckless and grabbed Samuel's hand without consent, what he heroically endured and some guy laid an arm around my shoulder (what is it with them and boundaries?). Still we left quite unbothered and happy with the workshop's results.
We paused at the UENR cafeteria and ate redred (rice, beans, plantains [bananas for cooking]). Anthony then took us to his farm. We passed by the school he worked at and greeted the headmaster. Then we walked further and finally arrived where he planted little green peppers and such. On the way Sylvester and him explained to us the healing effects of several plants.
Arrived at the hotel, Samuel and I ordered a pizza, which we shared and went to bed.



Bob the Builder

25.-26.10.24

On Friday morning, Samuel and I hurried to breakfast again. The worried employee asked us repeatedly if we were going to check out.We hurried to the Twene Amanfu school. Today Jed was gonna hold the workshop. The students had gathered outside, so we couldn't use our powerpoint, but regardless Jed did a great job. The Twene Amanfu students reacted the most out of all students, with an occasional "yes sir" for example. 

There was a bit of a conflict, because we had no "Environmental embassador" T-shirts for the headmistress, also the headmaster asked for one. I noticed that every school had a favourite teacher, because when one of them came upfront to receive the t-shirt, the students cheered explosively.
One important teacher was motivating the students, to participate in the project and like other teachers I had seen before, he held a long stick in his hand. When I asked Samuel about it, he confirmed my worries, that the students actually still got beaten in Ghana. This shocked me.
We left the schoolground and tackled our next stop: our team members arranged a donation for a local orphanage. First I went with Jed in his car (today three doors wouldn't open from the outside, I wondered if by tomorrow it would be impossible for him to get in), to collect 10 huge bags of water sachets. I stepped out of the car and wanted to help carrying. The boy who handed the bags out to us (who was clearly younger than me!) looked at me questioning: "Are you sure, you can carry that?"
"Yes."
"Are you sure you want to do it?"
"Yes, I want to help."
"Are you sure?"
"YES."
"Okay, take it, but he (Sylvester) takes the other one."
I took the bag out of his hand, but since it was a thin plastic bag and he had his fingers right under the knot as he still held it, it ripped a bit and I needed to put it down first, to rearrange my grib. This made him look even more questioning and worried, because he probably interpreted me putting the bag down as weakness. I carried the bag for one meter with his eyes piercing my back (it sucked, because I have the arm strength of a cooked spaghetti noodle and I feared that the bag would rip even more - I hate plastic bags for carrying heavy things), then Sylvester stepped in, because he wanted to carry one bag in each hand "for his balance". I accepted although grumpy. I was sure that the 15 meters to the car, wouldn't have been any problem.
We then proceeded to make our way to the orphanage. It was quite a long drive and the roads were so bad, that I feared for Jed's car, that made unhealthy noises.
There we got greeted by two children in wheelchairs that also were the first persons in wheelchairs I saw in Ghana. We donated the goods and a guy that worked there plus a boy from the orphanage prayed for us. We took the obligatory photos and then went on to visit the school on the other side of the road, that existed specifically for the orphans. We talked to the headmaster and planned together, to also do our project there.
When finished the group of us went to the Frankfurt Hotel to eat. This had been our very first hotel in Sunyani and we met the owner Joyce. Joyce had lived 33 years in Germany and had built the hotel solely on the shoulders of Aldi and Penny as it seemed. We talked a while in German, she explained her design choices and her (apparently not very Ghanaian) love for gardenflowers/plants and then allowed me to use her pool on one of the following days.
We promised to come back and then made our way to a little pavillion (the "hostel") at the UENR, to discuss some things and also Samuel wanted to go to the ATM (he wanted to check if there was money available there again, because we had completely drained three of them beforehand).
After that Samuel and I had our first free afternoon since we had arrived! We used that to walk into the city and visit the Melcom! There we got some overpriced Nutella, Samuel jumped for it like a eagle for its prey and we got some other stuff including Magnum ice cream, that was already broken due to harsh treatment and immediately fell apart when we removed the packaging. 
We then went on the hunt for some coconut and on the way purchased some bread for the Nutella and a water sachet to remove the Magnum disaster from our hands.
When we got our coconut, I took very long drinking it. Sylvester came for a short check-up and only as he was about to leave again, I had finally finished the coco water. The coconut seller then opened my coconut and offered to bring it to me, which he did: in a plastic bag! I honestly took that personally. Even though I wanted to see it as hostability or kindness it seemed to me rather as if he had deemed me incapable of eating coco flesh out of the shell. Indeed it made me feel infantilized no matter the possible intention.
Me being a bit moody we made our way. Also since we had purchased everything and a pineapple, that we needed (Samuel is very much a pineapple connoisseur).
At the hotel we not only devoured the pineapple but also again aimed for a pizza as dinner.

The next morning there were no workshops since it was Saturday, so our regional group had decided to work at our container. The goal was to build a little stall, where the group could store plastic bags collected from the schools. They wanted to do this to get a feeling of how much the bags weighed and of their amount, so the recycling company would not be able to scam them with the prices in the future (the amount of trust issues that is just normal here).
At the scenery I promptly felt very useless, because it turned out that Sylvester did once work in construction and was a total allrounder. He shoveled the ground to even it, he carried rocks to fill a gap between the ground and the container, he showed us how to weed with a machete (Samuel tried, but he of course couldn't compete with the master), he handled cement easily, he drove out with his moto to buy more cement, he cut mesh and metal pipes... All in all he was every capitalists darkest desire. He worked like a machine for the whole day in the heat (and that for free! The 19th century factory owners are already rubbing their hands). (I myself spent lots of time in the container, since the air had gotten very humid over the past three days and I just cannot handle that). During the day a yet unknown member joined us, her name was Lilian and she currently studied for her masters. She also showed us how to weed and chatted quite long with Anthony and Samuel. 
Every once in a while someone needed to get water for the cement. Of course only after Sylvester (the machine, he really earned that name) and a "metal guy" who took care of the soldering had built up the stall. Samuel and I (I just honestly didn't want to keep standing around uselessly) volunteered, which got highly protested. After Anthony had given in he still sent Francis with us to help. This occurred many times until Samuel had enough and confronted Anthony. This turned out to be a cultural difference: if you're a guest, Ghanaians will do anything for you and also want to prevent you from doing stuff like carrying water buckets (in fact it's considered rude if they let you). Whereas in Europe when someone tells you not to do something this mostly subtly expresses that you are incapable of doing it. Anthony told us that this applied to almost every situation, like for example carrying your luggage for you. This was a really important revelation, because it unveiled some of the situations I previously had found to be blatantly sexist as simple (although I find rather obedient) acts of service. This was also good to know for the future because not only I but also Samuel had sometimes felt offended by such situations. 
I later went out with Francis to get some more water (which by the way Sylvester had provided before in between his various tasks). I did realize, that often when we were walking somewhere I had talked quite a lot with Francis and that we had started to form some kind of connection that allowed us to chat a bit during tasks etc. We talked about the USA and about lizards in Ghana and tipping culture, but also about Canada and Germany. Almost everything, nothing too personal, nothing too interesting. I'm not even too sure if he likes our little chitchats, but sometimes he laughs a bit.
When we returned everything was almost over, Sylvester who had hustled the most revealed that he had eaten almost nothing all day and only drank a coffee in the morning after 5 hours of sleep. We quickly send him (the absolute MVP) home and then also made ourselves on the way.
 


This word shall know Pain - Pain

27.10.-01.11.2024

You know what's worse than getting your period? Getting your period 10km away from your destination on a road filled with speedbumps in the middle of nowhere whilst already being in abdominal pain because of an infection. So how did I end up in this situation you ask?

On Sunday we went to church with Jed. He had first asked us to appear for church at 6, then remembered that it would only start at 9. Which was bold, considering now Samuel and I were awake early and thus open for violence.
At the church (that was bigger than Anthony's one) there was an outstanding choir. One solo singer went to the mike upfront and lead the others. Bro sang so heavenly he almost converted me. Then the church actually started and the magic was gone. I noticed by the way that many people were on their phones in between. Weird, considering faith was such an important thing here. There were two offerings, the second time they called people up according to their birthday names (I was born on a Thursday, which makes my name something like "ya"). Samuel and I noticed that the priest and other important people (judging from their robes) drove the biggest cars and were known to have visited the USA and else. 
After church we went to eat something and Jed explained to us that eating meat was a status symbol and that if he as a local would ask to be served without meat, he wouldn't be served at all. Turns out we've only been able to eat a vegetarian diet, because of our whiteness.
Later that evening we decided to eat some Banku at Frankfurt hotel, I had also been told that I could use the pool. To bad, the pool wasn't full, so gone was my excitement.
The Banku wasn't really for me, the soup tasted much like oil and nothing and the Banku dough tasted fermented. When I found a fishbone in the soup it was over for me. 
Dana, you ask, how are you gonna put almost one whole week into one blog entry - isn't that a bit much? Ha, jokes on you! I got sick! And I did almost nothing!
Noteable moments for the following four days were: Sylvester went out to buy me some tea for my abdominal pain and medicine IN THE MIDDLE OF A TROPICAL THUNDERSTORM ON HIS MOTO. Sylvester if you read this, you are a real one, I'm gonna cherish those teabags forever. No really, he was completely soaked, when he got to our hotel and then immediately ran off, because he had a full schedule. 
On Wednesday I felt quite well and Samuel and I decided to visit Mole Nationalpark for the weekend before heading to Tamale. I wore my most revealing top that day, since I assumed that this probably would be the last opportunity to do so (Tamale is more traditional then other parts of the country and also many Muslims live there).
On Thursday there would have been an opportunity to visit Drobo for a day trip, but I felt worse again and decided to finally go to see a doctor. Jed took me to the university doctor on campus of the UENR. The waiting room was outside but under a roof and had metal benches like at a bus stop in it. Chicken ran around and to nurses checked up on the patients blood pressure and weight. The doctor also had a desk. At a little window inside of the belonging house I was asked to provide my data and later I was called into a neighbouring room to explain my symptoms. I got scheduled for a blood and an urinal test. And then went over to the lab where one of the five doctors in the room (it was as small as a shoe box) gave me a little box for my urine (amazing topic). Because I felt that I was getting really emotional and I hadn't eaten all day, I decided to buy some biscuits and then went to get my blood (malaria) test done. 
I was very open about my nervosity and the doctor who took my blood with a syringe (!) messed up really badly. I had more blood on my arm than in the syringe afterwards and the guy was shaking a bit. 
I needed 3 hours and 3 liters of water to be able to take my urinal test, because I was sweating out every ounce of liquid that entered my body. Meanwhile I visited some of the most disgusting and broken bathrooms I had ever seen in my life and had some conversations with Jed, but I didn't really feel comfortable, since he tried to pull me into some organizational discussion he had with Samuel and overall showed a way of thinking that I didn't really vibe with. Nonetheless he took good care of me and after my diagnosis (urinal infection) took me to the pharmacy to get my meds (the antibiotics cost 230cedis!). Sadly he nonconsentually took my hand when crossing the street, which I wasn't a fan of, but at least he brought me to the hotel. There I quickly talked to an employee who had asked me if we wanted to be friends a few days ago and then I moved to my room to call my family. 
In the evening we invited Sylvester, Jed and Anthony to Fufu as a last meal before our journey to Mole, but half of them came late, there was a misunderstanding with the owner of Frankfurt Hotel where we met, about the amount of people and the time and the Ghanaians complained that we ordered vegetarian, so extra meat had to be prepared. We then invited Lillian - another member - to make up for the missing people but she was only on the phone outside. Sylvester fell in love with the Aldi snack mix and Jed started discussing with Samuel again, this went on until I got another really bad heatwave and we left because I felt very sick.
After this unsuccessful last supper (lololol), we left early in the morning, paying our hotel bill via Remitly on Mobile Money.
Jed brought us to the bus station, we got in, I took my antibiotics and fell asleep. To my disappointment the bus driver didn't provide any Nigerian soaps to us but loud radio-noises.
Approaching the North of Ghana the roads got better and better and I started counting mosques, they appeared every 50 meters at some point. We also saw circular mud huts and houses with roofs made of very reflective corrugated iron. This looked quite a lot like the stereotypical Africa images shown on documentaries. 
The bus driver threw us out at the crossroad between Tamale and Mole, there two men immediately came up to us, took us by the hand and brought us to a trotro. Under a roofed shelter there sat a man in front of a desk and gave out tickets for the trotro, little strips of paper with a few lines printed on them, filled in with unreadable writing.
Samuel guarded our luggage and I sat in the trotro, when i saw a Telecel stand where I wanted to reload my mobile data, turns out the whole network had collapsed, so I failed. Unsatisfied I went back to the trotro, in the meantime enough people had gathered, so the drivers wanted to start. Amongst the people there was a woman with a beautiful blue headscarf, she had eyeliner around her eyes that made them look blue and her hands were coloured red. Her little daughter also had make-up on; painted on eyebrows and a tattoo between them that looked like the 2010s arrow trend, her hands and feet were also red. I still don't know what culture they were representing, but they appeared mystical to me, like fallen out of time.
In front of me there sat two older women and one of them turned at me and waved shyly, with an almost toothless but nonetheless beautiful smile. This encounter was so sweet, I knew I would think about this regularly. 
On we went, driving on a road without holes, but instead filled with speedbumps. The trotro seemingly fell apart everytime, the driver slowed down for the bumps and screeched and cracked notoriously. Since seatbelts in Ghana are either nonexistent or broken this for sure wasn't too funny and soon we were thoroughly shaken.
After around an hour I started to get really bad abdominal pain and I already feared i would get my period within the next hours. The assumptions hang over my head like a dark cloud. In Damongo we changed into a yellowyellow, after the trotro had almost thrown us out of our seats, the more people had left it. Apparently weight was its only springing.
Since a yellowyellow is basically a tricycle the following almost an hour was even more rough, 10km before our arrival I could then feel I was getting my period, also my pain had gotten worse and worse. We got closer and closer to Mole nationalpark and we saw a familiar symbol: the European Union (mother EU) supported the nationalpark! Some good representation of home so far away!
We passed the gates of Mole and Samuel got out to write our names on a document and pay a nationalpark fee. Meanwhile I started seeing black dots in front of my eyes so I took a paracetamol, that I had originally gotten for my abdominal pain caused by the infection. 
We continued driving and passed a monkey family that just took late lunch casually at the side of the road and I thought: Welcome to Mole.


Safari - Serena

02.-04.11.24

After a night in a shared bed with insects of all kind (an employee had grabbed a giant cockroach out of my room) - the advantages of visiting a tropical national park (turn the lights off or the bugs will find you), I made my way to a morning safari at 7 am.Quick interruption: I could pay with my creditcard!!!!

There I met not only Samuel but also Natalie, another German volunteer who currently spent her time at an orphanage in a small town named Narsia. We saw an elephant and could walk really close up to is, through the bushes and the high grass. The guides told us they called the elephant "Old man" because he was 53 years old and thus on his own and not with other animals. We also met baboons that are big monkeys and the reason why you have to always lock your doors in Mole, else they will get in. Also they snatch people's food, so it is advised to eat inside. I wondered if one day the people living in Mole would domesticate the baboons like we did with cats and dogs.
Then the guide showed us Pumbas ("lion king Pumba") out of the car. There is actually a small amount of houses were the rangers live with their families amongst baboons and other animals.
We also discovered cob antelopes and patas monkeys (I especially loved them, because they reminded me of my cat when they ran around), a big fat lizard and many more. Natalie and I talked the whole time about her stay in Ghana and my worries about my upcoming time here alone.
I found her very impressive as she told me about the living standards and the poverty in Narsia, how the children got fed grain with almost no soup, because so it was more filling and cheaper. Sometimes they got ground up dried fish in there for Protein.
There was no flowing water like in the bigger cities often and they used buckets for showering. Garbage got burned, there were no doors or windows. Big insects everywhere, sometimes finding their way under her mosquito net. Natalie wasn't allowed to walk outside alone, because she might just get kidnapped and she wasn't allowed to spend time alone with men as it would ruin the reputation of the orphanage were she spent her time an taught the children. She would transfer soon to another project, since she actually had intended to work a different kind of job than teacher and she needed it for her studies, but despite everything she liked it there.
This experience sounded way worse than what I had experienced and still I was more whiny about it.
Still having pain, I laid down for a short rest. Homesickness had hit me and I felt like crying all of the time.
Still I decided to join Samuel and Natalie to go to Larabanga to see the famous mosque, the oldest in all of Ghana, together with its ancient Baobab tree. 
A very nice YellowYellow driver provided everything to us. Our guide told us that the mosque had to be renovated every six months.
We also decided to buy some sheabutter from the local women and ate some jollof rice for only 15cedis which was insanely cheap.
Afterwards our driver took us to a small village parallel to the Mole park where we picked up a guy that would take us on a boat tour on a river that marked the border of Mole. To reach the boat our driver asked us to get out of the YellowYellow so we wouldn't fall down a slope and when he drove down the boat guy even held the YellowYellow so it would go safely.
Then we had to carefully climb down a muddy path and step on laid out branches and leafs so we wouldn't get stuck within the mud. We stepped into the wooden boat and on we went.
The water was nearly grey and our boat was gliding on it softly. We enjoyed the silence and the flowy motion and each of us paddled a bit. Some colourful birds were flying around and the boat guy demonstrated how his community drank the very polluted looking water. We also saw some crocodile steps and a squirrel but not a lot of animals at all, which was totally fine because the boat ride had relaxed us a lot.
On the way back our driver showed us a field were they dried and ground up Kasawa. Then we arrived back at Mole Motel and Natalie and I sat by the pool. She did a macrame belly chain and I watched her and told her how I missed my boyfriend and how I was scared to live alone here after Samuel would be gone. 
Natalie had pulled out a huge amount of golden pendants and arranged and attached them on the macrame.
Suddenly a nice Dutch woman who stayed with her family at Mole came up to us and presented a nicely arranged cheese plate to us and invited us to eat some. "Do you want some cheese?"
We felt like we had just met an angel and thanked her excessively. 
Samuel and later Natalie went swimming in the pool, I watched the sunset and our cheese-bringing angel instead. Her husband had gotten some wine, they were really living their best life. I admired them.
Still sometimes it felt weird to watch tourists at the Motel. They seemed misplaced for some reason. They had seen nothing of Ghana life. It felt weird for people to visit Ghana for tourism.
Later Samuel told me that the Dutch man owned an NGO in Sierra Leone that had built 50 schools! I was very impressed.

After having spent another emotional and painful night at the Motel we said goodbye to Natalie in the morning. I would've loved to spend more time with her and I had realized that I felt very lonely, because although I could talk to Samuel I was missing my friends and also talking to girls, since we mostly worked with men and girls and women sadly were rare. Samuel had been on a night-safari with her, but I had been to tired.
Most of the day I decided to rest, but in the afternoon I joined another safari. 
When I arrived at the meeting point I saw many people with their cameras out and when I checked I saw that the elephant had come to visit! He casually enjoyed some greens on the other side of the road, then crossed it without checking the traffic and decided to violate a tree by snapping off a big branch with its snout, for which he had to stretch his whole body.
We then went on by car and Samuel who had wanted to walk (but apparently him and two other tourists were the only ones) joined mine.
When we arrived at the ranger's village the guide explained to us: "Pumba means half-brain in Swahili-language. It has many meanings like stupid or fool or half-brain. It's used as an insult."
Rip Pumba. Disney did you dirty.
We ventured on and along and met the standard antelopes. Then we approached a big tree full of monkeys. Green monkeys "they are so smart they can kill a dog", apparently they were even fighting the big baboons even though they were the smallest monkeys in Mole. But they had sharp teeth and were smart, so all other monkeys feared them. "When a dog hunts them they lay flat" our coach explained, putting his hands up as if they were paws to demonstrate. "And when it comes and stands over the monkeys they will bite its throat."
Slightly disturbed we went on. We saw elephant trails, a baboon that ran away from us, antelope groups - females that belonged to one young male that still had his horns and stopped by a water loch, were we got out and the guide showed us around.
Very happy we returned and got dinner. Some aggressive insects attacked and bit me under my shirt. I fled inside and a nice also Dutch woman helped to check my back under the shirt for more insects.
Samuel and I then got in a conversation with her two daughters. One of them worked in Uganda and one in Ghana, which again was impressive to me.
Exhausted I decided to go to bed and cry (because gee, I was sick and it still hurt and also insects bit me and I felt alone and missed my boyfriend and my cat and...).

The next morning Samuel went on a walking safari and I just slept lol.
We got breakfast, paid for our open Motel fees and a YellowYellow brought us to Damongo from where we would take a Trotro to Tamale.
We stopped at an ATM because I had run out of money and lived off Samuel and his money (and some euros we had changed in for cedi).
A sign in front of the bank's door said "No weapons allowed from here" what I found amusing. (Imagine you're on the way to violently rob a bank, see this sign and think to yourself "dang it, it's forbidden to bring weapons, now I can't rob this bank anymore, I'll just go home" - haters will say it doesn't work).
Then followed a rather unpleasant drive in one of the best, newest and smoothest driving cars I had ever seen in Ghana. Bad thing we shared seats with all in all 5 other passengers, without seatbelts of course because this is still Ghana.
Our driver clearly had something to compensate since he broke every traffic rule I know and sped past whole trucks with 120km/h in a curve.
After having feared for my life for a few hours, we ended up in the middle of a Tamale Market, that reminded me a bit of the busy Accra markets and then our team member Okra picked us up.
Abdul who was still in a bus on the way here from Accra had called a nearby restaurant owner and we got to the restaurant and enjoyed some (expensive!) delicious Indian food. (Okra seemed a bit flabbergasted when we asked him to pay at least half of his food, which caused us to think about how to communicate that just because we're white we don't pay everything.)
Okra brought us to the hotel where we were going to stay and made sure we got there safely and then we went straight to sleep.

I just can't wait to be king

05.-07.11.2024

On Tuesday we met Abdul Rashid for the first time. Even though all Ghanaian people smile a lot, he smiled even more. Since we had been in contact with him the longest, we were really happy to meet him in person. He taught us some rules about shaking hands and waving (all with your right hand), about the religion (Islam, muslim men will also not shake my hand) and our first few words in Dagbani - the local language.
In our team are two Abduls btw, Abdul Rashid and Abdul Rahim, Abdul Rahim had met us at the hotel and explained a lot about Ummy Relief Foundation (a partner organisation of TwB and EndplasticSoup) that belongs to Abdul Rashid, who is our main contact person in Ghana. Abdul Rahim explained everything to us very well constructed and informative and later Abdul Rashid and his team members told us everything including religion, culture and food, that we might need to know about Tamale. This was very useful information which would have been great to also have had in Sunyani.
Abdul Rashid then told us that transparent communication was very important to him, so we discussed the money issue and the discussion and organization problems which we had in Sunyani to our team and they responded very well to it.
Over all the whole office and the team members left a very put together impression, even though two of them were injured because of a motorbike accident. (For some reason everyone still told us they were very safe to use.)
Abdul (I'm referring to Abdul Rashid only as Abdul mostly) then invited us to share his food with him, which we ate by hand. For some reason the whole food-sharing was very wholesome to me (although unhygienic).
We then decided to get some "rest" at the hotel and meet again at 7pm to eat something. This time we shared two plates with Okra (the team member, not the vegetable) and Abdul in a Maggi-House. I call this Maggi-house because there's Maggi banners around the whole roof and Maggi posters and stickers on every other free spot (and indeed the food also tasted very Maggi).
Afterwards Abdul (who was in a very nice mood, he even jumped around a little - very relatable) showed us the "Pool side" where I would be able to swim in the future. We drank some juice I told Abdul I could teach him how to swim and we joked a bit around. All in all everyone was simply very friendly.

On Wednesday Abdul Rahim and Okra brought us two the Tamale markets, they divide into the old and the new market. Rahim presented as our guide and showed and told us everything. The markets are really big and you can find anything between secondhand-clothing and a butcher's hall (I do not recommend, there's a reason why I'm vegetarian). What I always find a bit weird is that lingerie and underwear (sometimes with TikTok-symbols) are sold openly on the street. Maybe it's the European taboos in me that make me think such things are private and weird to be shown in public (even though I can't lie, some of them are really pretty), but it always surprises me. Generally sex is openly promoted in medicine and such in Ghana, sometimes there are huge posters that advertise pills that promise to solve any kinds of sexual problems, with convincing keywords like "long and strong". This together with the publicly displayed underwear and often completely see-through lingerie stands in strong contrast to the else quite conservative society and I have no explanation for it. I just find it weird.
I still really enjoyed visiting the market, we shared some sugar cane, what I really enjoyed and saw dried crocodile and snake-heads and other dried animal parts that were used for traditional medicine.
I think it was a very fun day. I liked that I got useful information and didn't have to find out by myself. It's just nice to have a little tour at a new place.
We then visited Red Clay which is some kind of half artistic half historical museum with planes and trains and tons of stuff displayed. There were even some white tourists here, because apparently it's quite famous.
Today we originally had wanted to move into my apartment (yes I have an apartment here, because I'm gonna stay 3 months), but the water wasn't working.

Thursday turned out to be very exciting. Unlike every other day before, we started punctually and met Abdul at the office to go to an event at a school. Samuel had been asked to talk at this event, that was hosted by the PAMEPI organization about women in STEM. Although I'm not a woman in STEM I knew lots about this topic, also historically, so if you're reading this and you are a woman: just because STEM subjects are framed to be "Men subjects" they aren't! I myself am friend to so many intelligent and ambitioned young women, that are studying STEM fields or just have a talent for mathematics and chemistry and such. They are so impressive and I'm insanely proud of them so NEVER let anyone tell you you cannot do it, just because you're woman.
I have to admit: Samuel and I were seated on the podium and I was the only woman up there and also the only person that didn't speak and in the aftermath this still doesn't sit right with me.
But this was not the most exciting thing about this event, because the chief of Tamale was attending!
Two pick-ups rolled onto the school yard, one of them had traditionally clothed men with drums sitting on the open trunk, that played traditional rhythms and sang about the greatness of the chief. Then a huge parasol was taken out of the pick-up, so big it almost got stuck in the door and then it was held in front of the second pick-up's door. 
When the chief's foot touched the ground everyone kneeled down to owe him respect. A woman started screaming a melodic but high-pitched "AYAAAAAAAA" in the rhythm of the singing and drums and the chief was guided to the room.
This took 20 minutes, even though the room was only 20 meters away, but of course the chief had to be covered from the sun and everyone had to gather around him like a bee-hive. The chief occasionally threw some money at his admirers, which made me question the sincerity of their motives and moved step by step in his ground-touching gown that looked very heavy and that he had combined with pretty cool sunglasses.
So chiefs are the traditional authority here in Ghana and they still hold a lot of authority and Samuel and I didn't really know how to act appropriate in his presence.
For the whole event he sat on the sofa, with a resting pillow for his feet an extra fan and his admirers guiding him and holding his parasol and walking-stick for him.
The headmaster who led the event bowed to him and then read out the timeplan (which he quite obviously did for the first time, since he messed up repeatedly).
Samuel who had improvised everything for his speech also bowed to him which got rewarded with applause.
Later students from different schools who had gathered there presented their own projects, like an electronic wastebin or a walking stick for the blind that had sensors. I was very impressed by their professionalism and innovatism. They seemed very organized and especially the first group who was all girls gave me shivers, because they spoke very evaluated and professional without missing a beat. 
After the events we took lots of pictures and the chief wanted to pose with us! After all he seemed like a pretty chill guy with good morals because he supported the women in STEM, talked about saying no to drugs (Ghana currently has a drug problem) and the importance of peace and peaceful democratic elections. Still I was really nervous, because I had never been so close to an authority and I wanted to leave a good and respectful(!) impression. I also noticed gold rings on his fingers which must've been real and from Ghana, because Ghana is very rich in gold (except the Chinese do illegal mining, so the Ghanaian people mostly don't profit off it). I found it kind of charming that he also just wanted to snap a picture with the white people. 
Soon after we already were surrounded by students who wanted pictures and our number.
Of course the US election was a topic and we had a pretty good discussion about it, which was unexpected because we got told that these were hardly possible due to cultural differences. But we even tackled serious topics like the choice over childbirth and such that really confronted our team members worldview and idea of women. I really enjoyed the conversation and I think our team members too, because we told them in Germany in a relationship we split money evenly and the man doesn't pay everything and they loved it.
Again we slept at the hotel because the apartment wasn't ready.

Home sweet Home

08.-09.11.2024

On the 8th of November we pretty much spent all of the day with Okra, buying much needed furniture for my apartment. Actually we had intended to move there this day, but Okra's arrival and thus our shopping trip got delayed, why we again decided to sleep another night at the hotel.

At the apartment, we checked what was still missing, but then realized that it was much more obvious what was not missing. I was now the proud owner of a mattress (the other one is Samuel's), two fans, a pillow and some cleaning utensils, including a mop head without a stick.
An Aboboya arrived at our door: a tricycle with an open trunk to transport commodities and delivered our water "for two weeks", which Samuel and Okra filled out of containers into a big green bucket.
Okra tried me, by asking if I really could carry one full container (which I couldn't - I just lifted it up to demonstrate and then my spaghetti noodle arms kicked in, but at least I had proven my point and my ego was satisfied).
After that was done, we proceeded to take a YellowYellow to the market and bought some useful stuff like napkins, a padlock for our front door, a toilet brush etc etc. We also checked out a mall for furniture, but it was so expensive that we only bought some surface cleaner and kitchen utensils.
The one thing we had been on the hunt for, we didn't find: a table with chairs.
In afternoon we had gathered with our local team at the office. Samuel had cut his hand at a rusty edge at our apartment's door and was scared of potential sepsis, why he went to the hotel to clean the wound. He returned later and everything was fine. In the meantime I met Precious who I was to work together with for EndPlasticSoup in the following weeks. He greeted me with: "Unfortunately my face is disfigured." Like Issahak and another member he had also had a motorbike accident. He then proceeded to talk to me in fluent German! I was so impressed! And he told me that since he had a small oven we could try to bake German bread! My heart melted, when you're German you know - bread is the number one thing you miss every time you go abroad. It's not a cliché it's true, we and our bread have a special relationship.
Later Samuel was taking a call outside and suddenly he came in and informed us, that there was a little girl outside that had been crying badly for 15 minutes. Then our team colleagues got outside to talk to her and reported to us, that she'd been selling something for the whole day and now had got stolen/had lost all her earned money.
Abdul said: "She was crying like that, because she knew she would cry even more when she would have went home. Her auntie would've caned her like a goat."
Yesterday we had observed how a little boy had been caned by his mother in broad daylight in the middle of the street. This had caused a morality discussion, where we had realized that our Ghanaian members had no problem with children being beaten - not because they were evil people that wanted children to suffer, but because it is normal here and they had been beaten too. To that it was illegal in Germany, Abdul had only commented: "It's illegal to beat your own child?!"
And when I said now, that this was unfair and not the poor girl's fault and that situations like this were why you shouldn't hit children, he simply responded with: "Don't say that."
We gave the girl the 27cedis she had lost, so she could finally go home. But Samuel, who had provided most of the money and I were deeply disturbed. The image of the little girl crying and then standing up after receiving the money, playing strong - it haunts me till this day. This felt so wrong and I was so sorry for her. I just wanted to hug her and take her away to a place where she would never have to fear being beaten again.

On the 9th of November (important date in German history: google for headaches) Samuel and I had been invited to observe a university graduation (well more the afterparty) at local university.
We took a YellowYellow there after we painfully struggled to bring our luggage into the apartment.
On the way there I realized that my hair had gotten so sundamaged over the past weeks, that it made crispy sounds when I touched it. I rubbed the split ends between my hands and it made a sound as if it were about to start a wildfire (maybe after all this is how the humans discovered fire). This brought my mood down a bit, because as any person with long hair I don't want to lose the length because of damage. Ultimately (after doing a quick google search) I decided to buy some moisturizing hair products and hair oils to prevent further damage and we entered the campus.
The uni campus was so big, that it almost gave the impression of a small town. Tents had been placed everywhere and there were tons of happy people in beautiful traditional clothing. I think I haven't seen such a large group of happy people in months and the mood was immaculate.
We met Abdul Rahim and Okra that again were our tourguides and showed us everything. Abdul Rahim turned out to be very famous on campus and knew almost everyone. Still I focused mostly on the people's clothing. I was amazed by the variety of fabrics and cuts, even in the men's clothing! They totally out-competed every German fancy event, where men would all wear suits in a variety of black, grey and blue and I loved it. (You cannot see it in my way of dressing at the moment, but I love fashion! And it really feels bad not to be able to dress in my usual style and instead dress practicable. Such a loss of identity and fun expression.)
After we had conquered the campus, Okra took us shopping again. This time we went to another mall and found a stove, a table, chairs, bed sheets my hair products (although some of them were formulated very weird, so it took me an hour to find moisturizing hairproducts without a whole bartender equipment of different alcohols in it - mother EU and your ingrediental restrictions, I miss you.)
My heart bled when pulling out my card to pay, but this definitely had been necessary. At the market we went into a telecel bureau, because Samuel needed to make a call to Germany and I bought lots of mobile data for a very cheap price.
We then went home, where we again met Abdul Rahim and then we split up in groups of two to buy food and gas for the stove.
Even though I was scared I sat on Rahim's motorbike and we explored the area. One of our neighbours who is a very nice older guy named Divine had also brought us water sachets as a gesture of welcome, which made Samuel and me very happy. Generally the neighbourhood seemed safe and welcoming. There are some "supermarkets" and vegetable stands, where women sell tomatoes and such displayed on wooden boxes and plastic sheets on the ground, also some of the small everything shops in little houses everywhere.
After being satisfied with my purchases we returned to the apartment, Rahim went out again, to buy some water that we hadn't been able to transport on the motorbike before anymore. (I had also bought pots and when looking at the collection I had seen that most of them were 100% aluminium! When I said that those would've been banned at home and Rahim asked why, I only said "because aluminium is poisonous", which left an awkward silence, but the instance alone shocked me, that harmful elements aren't banned here.)
We thanked Okra and Rahim for their help and I started cleaning the whole apartment with the mop head, on my knees, which took forever. The toilet really was the most terrifying part, as it looked as if a sandstorm had been going on in there.
Abdul Rashid also came over and brought us some vegetables from his farm. He commented on our kitchen, that "you can see this is a ladies room". I don't know if it was because in one day we got all the equipment or if it just was comment like "you're a woman so you belong in the kitchen", which naturally made my blood boil, because either way it was sexist and I don't like that. (And yes, I just overlook such situations within the moment, because I don't know how to handle them yet, but I will rant later on here, because it is my genuine experience).
Afterwards Samuel and I ended the day with our first home-cooked meal, that we prepared together because Samuel simply refused to only cheer for me so I would cook, but rather he likes cooking too: spaghetti with tomato sauce.
 


Anya likes peanuts!

10.11.2024

Today we wanted to visit one of the TwB and Ummy Relief Foundation farms that is the pilot project for the TwB agroforestry project. Delayed as always we started making our way to the farm which is located in a quite remote community. The way was so long that we stopped to take lunch in between. We ate fried yam and sweet potato with beans, which I really enjoyed. We even got fried cheese! It was a delight, because normally it is impossible here to find cheese.We shared the plate as five people and ate with our hands and it cost only 80cedis!

Being here truly shows me the value of money, because 80 cedis is around 5€ and it would be impossible to find a meal for 5 people for that amount in Europe. Prices have gone of the rails.
We continued on our way to the farm and first visited a community, where Ummy Farms (a company connected to Ummy Relief Foundation) worked together with local women on the realization of their projects.
The women were really welcoming, although they didn't speak any English, they sang, clapped their hands and chatted and laughed a lot.
We had gathered with them under a tree and peeled peanuts, which was an activity that I surprisingly really enjoyed because it cleared my head while keeping my hands in action. So I peeled quite a lot and got complimented on my ambition, saying I could become a farmer (but maybe they were just being nice).
Samuel then spoke on plastic and Rahim translated for him, it was again all improvised and then I spoke on the agroforestry project by TwB. I used the tree the women were sitting under as an analogy, because Abdul Rashid had told me, that a tree meant life and community, because it provides shade for a whole community to sit under it.
So I used this analogy to explain, that a tree doesn't only provide and strengthens a community of people but also plants, that it provides nutrients, shade and water and allows other plants to grow and that it also cleans the air and improves health for everyone and everything.
Everyone really seemed to like this little speech of mine and that made me happy. Some of the women then gifted me a small package of peanuts as a welcome gift, Abdul Rashid then sponsored some toffees and drinks to the women, which I found generous and we were good to go.
Before that though Samuel and I noticed how the children running around all had bloated bellies and sometimes sticking out belly buttons, which looked really unhealthy and scary. We asked Abdul Rahim about it, who is a nutritionist and he told us about the malnutrition of the children and that he planned to install a factory of peanut paste that Unicef uses to treat malnutrition, because Unicef had stopped providing these. I asked him to take me to that company if possible and to let me in on the project, out of interest.
Again, I knew about malnutrition, my family always supported projects against it, but seeing it with my own eyes still hurt and was altering.
By the way, children here sometimes are really cute, because they often want to hold our hands with their dirty little ones and then they walk with us and stand next to us until we leave, completely content and quiet. It's probably the nicest way of handling my whiteness I've experienced here.
We then got to see the farm, that was even further away and we could see the little trees planted for the agroforestry project. In a few months they will already be quite tall. Abdul Rashid explained to us how they had planted different kinds of trees to avoid monocultures. I really admired the thoughtfulness.
We then drove home, with Abdul taking on a meeting inside the YellowYellow. Abdul Rahim even slept a bit.
At the apartment we relaxed a bit, because later in the evening Abdul had invited us for dinner. 
He picked us up with his motorbike and both Samuel and I sat behind him on it. First the thought really scared me, but because I was sandwiched between Samuel and Abdul, I figured that if we fell I would fall on Samuel and therefore I'd prevent injury.
After a very wobbly drive (there were more holes than street), we arrived at Abdul's house. 
His wife brought us Fufu that was vegetarian (but still cooked with fish, as we tasted it, which technically not vegetarian, but what was I supposed to do?), but she didn't eat with us and instead went to the other room. Also something not common in Germany and therefore weird to us. 
Abdul's one-year-old son Nasara joined us and wanted some of the juice we had brought as a guest present. He seemingly loved spending time with his dad and he could also only say "dad".
In the background there was a TV-program running, that reminded me a bit of The Voice or DSDS but with stars reimagining popular songs in their style. What was extremely funny to me was the everything but subtle product placement that consisted of beverages being put in plain sight on the judges' tables, that were filmed in an unusual wide angle so it would've been caught by the cameras.
Nasara then was supposed to sleep but he was already able to open doors, so he came back. This caused Abdul to threaten him, saying he would cane him. Still then he gave in and even let him sit on his motorbike, so he could pretend to drive it, before Abdul brought us home. After another adventurous ride, we then arrived home.

 


Work - Rihanna

11.-13.11.24

On Monday I went to the doctor (this is not the only thing that happened, first we met with Abdul at the office and then he took us to an ATM and then brought me to the lab) to get a check-up on my UTI. Just to make sure, because I still had had some symptoms, although they likely resulted from the antibiotics.I met Doctor Titi at the lab, he communicated everything so I could do another urinal test (it never ends). Of course this took some time and whilst emptying half of the free water supply of the lab, I told the Doctor a lot about Germany. All in all he seemed very interested, he found our way of eating funny (fair, bread is our everything) and I told him about the Wattenmeer. He said even though he had heard about it he had never believed it was real. I really think he has a very kind and caring personality.

After everything was done, Samuel and Abdul reappeared and we got some delayed lunch.
A mother came up to me with her baby while we were waiting in line, when she shook my hand the baby started screaming and crying (pain) and she fastly took it away (it still hurts, must have lost at least half of my "aura points" - Ehre genommen).
On the way back we went shopping and I made a friend in a closeby shopping center, her name is Amanda and now we're always greeting each other, when we come to shop. Also I found milk from an area close to where I live in Germany, that really made my day.
Samuel and I then went home and decided to cook a pumpkin soup with Abdul's vegetables. Sadly most of it burned, because we underestimated the power of our gas stove. Still we ate everything that was not burned and grieved for the rest.

On Tuesday I had an incredibly productive day. I wrote lots on my blog (I know I'm very behind, I'm sorry, the internet situation in my apartment is terrible), we planned a lot for our first RecycleUp! workshop the next day and Issahak and Okra designed t-shirts, posters, banners and frames. Also I drew some posters with the cycle of plastic off a picture. Everyone treated my stick figures as art, which was really cute.
Also I purchased a photo, Okra had taken. It was showing the face of a woman, she wore golden eyeshadow and lipstick and some golden colour on her fingers, which that she covered her other eye. It was symbolizing Ghana's gold and I found it very beautiful.

The next day our first workshop started at Tamascho. We arrived with a YellowYellow and Samuel showed off his bargaining skills. Abdul Rahim awaited us, he was dressed nicely as always and had prepared many notes for his presentation.
We then walked around the school to meet everyone important. One guy who spoke to us and asked where we were from. He then continued with: "Here Germany is only known for one thing..."
"WW2?", I responded bitterly.
"Perfection."
"Oh."
Soon the workshop started but sadly the students didn't pay too much attention, because someone outside had a "spiritual problem" (from what I've spotted it looked more like epilepsy) and they ran outside to observe.
Nonetheless Rahim did an amazing job and also our team had been very smart and invited Doctor Titi to talk about health disadvantages of plastic. Sadly lots of this got to waste (pun intended), but overall we still found the workshop to be successful.
We then presented our metal cage (in Sunyani we had used plastic bins, but due to the heat in Tamale, we needed to find another solution, since the plastic would eventually break. So our team came up with one big metal cage, divided into two sections - one for bottles and one for sachets.)
After this was done Samuel sat on Abdul Rashid's motorbike and I drove with Abdul Rahim.
We passed a bridge over a very polluted small river and curved around houses and holes in the ground.
At the office we were very exhausted and reflected shortly on the day.
Samuel and I then went home, with his bargaining skills we got ourselves a mop bucket and a mop stick for all in all 60 cedis (we also needed to buy the mop head with it).
This time, cleaning was so much easier, it was a dream!


Not your barbie girl - Ava Max

14.11.-16.11.2024

Today the second Tamale workshop at an all-girls school occurred. We were there before time and could build up everything slowly without hurry. I have to say, preparing everything in beforehand really felt great and made me feel optimistic. No workshop before had been this relaxed, really. 

Our team members were having fun with picture frames they had printed for the project to motivate the students to take pictures with us. 

An unfamiliar face had also joined the conversation: her name was Amina and she was a volunteer and apparently so motivated that she had pulled up at Abdul Rahim’s house so he would take her to the workshop. I aspire to have her self-esteem. 

We had a very interesting talk about how Africans apparently didn’t really trust each other and I gave the European Union as an opposing example (because we all love to make fun of Franc- I mean each other, but overall, I personally do not only identify as German but also European and this causes a sense of belonging for me in all of Europe, instead of mistrust). I highly recommended the concept of a trade union, because in my opinion it can’t be that Earth’s richest continent doesn’t decide about its own wealth (too political I know) and despite of a shared history of exploitation doesn’t stick together to which Amina agreed. (Opposing the Western aspirations of keeping up post-colonial trade exploitation will always be my definition of peak girlhood.) 

What startled me was that Amina had never heard of Africa being a rich continent – which CRAZY it’s the richest continent on earth resourcewise. I really think that if education focused on the resource wealth here, maybe that would help the people gaining international power. But yeah, that’s just a thought-chain of mine. 

The workshop went by, everything was distinguishly organized. Rahim held the presentation, Abdul did the moderation, Okra took pictures, Samuel introduced TwB and I closed the workshop by making the students yell “Stop plastic pollution now”. 

Afterwards we took pictures outside and this is where the very well behaved (btw it is normal here to stand up and hiss “Boss” when the headmistress or the headmaster arrives) students started shifting. Samuel didn’t have that issue but I suddenly felt about five hands on my shoulders and back. 

Then I wanted to go inside to get my stuff and one girl pulled up in front of me and asked for my number, I wrote it down and all of the sudden I was swarmed by dozens and dozens of teenage girls. It were so many that I couldn’t see a way out and didn’t even stand safely anymore due to a lack of space. 

This all in all would have been okay, but then 10 of them started shaking my (very sweaty) hand and rubbing it and then they started rubbing my arms and screamed “it’s hot!”, “I also want to touch it” (yes, my skin heats up in a hot environment -either my ancestors were Vikings or that is some kind of skin type specific or allergic reaction). This now was uncomfortable, I made some big eyes and opened my mouth in a half laughing half shocked way when suddenly someone grabbed my braid from behind. Multiple girls let my hair run through my hands, screamed how it felt and how they liked it and this was the last drop for me. Because no one had ever touched my hair without permission, the unusualness of it gave me back my voice and I said “Stop that please” and held my hand up. Apparently too silent, because now the girl I had given my number decided to hug me and suddenly I was hugged by multiple girls at once from every direction. I was scared I would fall under their weight and then one of them decided that it would be a good idea to first kiss my hand and then my cheek. At this point I felt the need to cry and luckily a teacher told the students to leave to their classrooms. I don’t know if he had observed the escalation. 

We now went to the headmistress office to give out some project related gadgets. I wasn’t really feeling well and I had given Samuel a hint about the situation. When we got outside, he asked me if I was okay (the forbidden question), which caused me to start crying. I also really tried calling my boyfriend to talk to him, since I knew he would understand, but the internet again was too unreliable. 

While I did that Samuel explained everything to our team members and after they had sorted everything we went home straightly, were I spent most of the day on my mattress. Samuel cooked some spaghetti with tomato sauce for lunch and for dinner we ordered Indian food (which was great) and a pizza (which was a crime against humanity, consisting of sweet dough covered in gummy-like cheese with 4 tomatoes instead of tomatosauce). Samuel really was my hero that day, he even offered me a hug. That day he kind of felt like an older brother to me and I think describing our relationship as sibling-like probably is the closest it will get. 

I had several phone calls about what happened, because neither of us knew how to understand the situation. And later I was able to sort it out with my boyfriend’s mother (thank you). What happened at the school was some kind of objectification to my skin-colour (not racism, because that I can’t experience due to being blank space, easy way to differentiate for all Herberts out there: when I face stereotypes regarding my skin colour they are always targeting my privileges and never implying I’m lesser) paired with excitement. At this point I’m used to being called “Siliminga” (like Obruni but Dagbani) the moment I come in sight, especially children have sometimes never seen a white person in their lives. Can I blame them for being excited, wanting to hold my hand, calling me in their language? – No. Do I have to like it? – Also no, but it really doesn’t bother me a lot AS LONG AS my boundaries are respected. And this is where the term objectification comes in: not asking and after voicing them out not respecting my boundaries to me is the disrespect of my personhood aka objectifying me to my outer appearance and therefore seeing it as okay to just touch me without my permission. And in this case it was really going too far, hence my emotional reaction. No matter the innocence of their motives, in any other situation if it weren’t minors, I would have used the term harassment. In case you now think I should just get myself some thicker skin, do so, but really please always respect another person’s boundaries, even if they seem exaggerated -  you never know what they’ve been through. 

 

Well after this kind of devastating experience the day before I started to notice at the next school, how I behaved differently and tried to avoid groups of students and sometimes students alone. This really bugged me because I didn’t want one bad situation to cause prejudice. Still we held the workshop and this time Doctor Titi was also present and educated the students about health effects of plastic. The Ghanascho students listened carefully and seemed to have taken lots out of the workshop. I was impressed by their positive attitude. The Ghana national news team also was present and after the workshop, Samuel, Rahim and I gave an interview. The poor interviewer was sweating and shaking when talking to us, but nonetheless he did a great job and also I would’ve probably reacted the same. 

I have to say that I was really impressed by our team’s performance, Doctor Titi “improvised” an absolute masterpiece, Abdul regained attention in any situation and Rahim seemingly was the fan favourite. Our team really did a great job. 

After meeting the very chill headmaster we then got some food at the office and spent the afternoon visiting the recycling company that was our stakeholder in the project. Okra and Samuel shared one motorbike and I drove with Abdul, I almost lost my cap three times due to the wind and then we arrived. 

The owner of the recycling company showed us around and explained everything in detail, generally he seemed very friendly. 

Okra and I had a small conversation about how the produced white plastic pellets looked like rice and how we would probably eat them by accident, if we had a long day and were tired. 

To finish the day, Samuel and I brought our laundry away, went shopping, made indomie with peanut sauce and he got an absolutely insulting haircut at a barber right around the corner. 

At the barber there was a weird man next to me, he asked me questions about our currency. This made me feel uncomfortable, which I tried to overplay with humour and therefore my answers really weren’t the best. I took note from that situation as Samuel gave me advice how to do better in the future. Meanwhile his hair got absolutely demolished. If I had been the barber I would’ve stopped to at least watch a youtube tutorial, after Samuel’s hair immediately flapped back when he tried to comb it with a special comb, that people here use to create volume (I think, at least that’s what it does, I think the barbers use it to get perception of the length). 

We returned home with Samuel’s new microbangs and went to sleep. 

On Saturday, which was the second last day Samuel was going to be here, nothing much happened. We only got to the office around 1pm. Samuel tried to teach our team members some useful stuff about TwB documentation work and such, but the power went off and done was it. Therefore, Samuel and I decided to go to the post office, turned out it was closed so again no sending of my letters. Instead, we bought ingredients for an absolutely fire sandwich we prepared at home and then went to bed. Tomorrow would be my last day with Samuel and I didn’t know, if I was ready to be alone. 

They have to find us: we glow in the dark! - Samuel

17.11.-18.11.24

Today was the last day with Samuel, he managed to get his hair cut to an acceptable outcome and we were planning to go swimming, but didn't manage, because we decided to once again eat sandwiches and suddenly it was dark outside. When its dark the mosquitos come out and gather over the water. Before we had spent some time at the office and our team members were preparing a dinner for later, to say goodbye to Samuel.

In the evening we returned and the whole floor had been laid out by our team members with carpets. The table were standing on the sides. We had pizza (one was supposed to be vegetarian - it was not, it had sausage, tuna and chicken lol) and fruit. Everyone was chatting, all went nicely. Earlier we had gotten Tamale TwB and Ummy Relief Foundation T-shirts with our names. Now Samuel got a gift that was a traditional clothing item paired with a hat. He was very excited and many pictures were taken. 
We then went home, after I had a very long and interesting conversation with Doctor Titi.

The next morning my alarm clock rang at 4:30 am, but of course I didn't get up and waited as long as I could (since I didn't have to pack my luggage, unlike Samuel) until I got up and got dressed. I had decided to escort Samuel to the STC station. We went outside and found what was probably one of the first YellowYellows of the day for the ridiculous price of 45cedis. Since we didn't have the luxury of choice we still took it. Sadly we missed Abdul, because we went so early. Otherwise he would've brought Samuel. At the bus station there was a man selling traditional fans, bells, hats and purses (but seemingly no one was interested). We could the sun go up within 15minutes and then finally (way after departure time) it was time for Samuel to enter the bus. We said goodbye and I fled the scene, because I felt a tear leaving my eye and I didn't want to get emotional in public.
On the way back I contacted Precious who I was going to work with from now on and decided to meet him in the afternoon.
A YellowYellow driver hissed at me and asked me where I was going, I told him my destination he offered to bring me for 50GHs I obviously denied. He repeatedly asked me if I knew the place (I live there lol, he was really trying), I said yes and he tried convincing me by saying it was far and asking me, how much I was willing to pay. I looked at him over the frame of my glasses and said: "Yesterday I took a YellowYellow for 5GHS", which made him give up and show me the direction to a collection spot for YellowYellows.
It really wasn't that deep though, I simply crossed the street and the first YellowYellow driver that came by offered to bring me for 6GHS. 
At the apartment I spent some time laying around, I cleaned the table and the kitchen and fought some ants that had found a way in and now planned to overtake the apartment.
Later then, I met Precious at the street, he came and picked me up to his work.
There he showed me the working space with sewing machines etc and explained the system of his company. After I asked some questions that I wanted to use to build up a project idea and then we went to the city, because I finally wanted to send some letters and needed to buy things for the apartment.
Precious who had been in an accident told me, he would be a bit scared of motorbiking now. I wouldn't have noticed as we sped through the melting pot of Tamale's worst traffic with him taking on a phone call in between.
He told me about his experiences he had made as a volunteer in Germany last year and we again spoke some German. He showed me everything and also helped me navigate at the DHL and the Tamale post office (where they had absolute gut-wrenching prices, I might add). In the end, we came to no results, since the one counter that didn't price us outrageously closed one minute before we came.
He then brought me home and I showed him some of my apartment. Afterwards I soon went to sleep, after non-successfully trying to call my boyfriend (ugh, the internet).

Lights - Ellie Golding

19.11.-20.11.

On Tuesday I spent half of the day at home, extremely tired and worked on some project-based things. I then went grocery-shopping and cooked dinner. Afterwards I met Abdul at the office, we discussed some things and he then took me to the city to check out the prices at fedex for my letters. Spoiler alert: they weren't any better. He then intentionally took me to the little bridge I had recently mentioned in my blog to take pictures of it (here you go). Formerly I had planned to spend the rest of the evening at the office to then do my meeting, but my phone was almost off, so I needed to get my charger, which is why I turned out to go home and eat. In the evening then suddenly the lights went off, right when I was preparing dinner.
Turned out, "the power is finished" as my neighbours enlightened (pun intended) me. They made me call Abdul and then I gave them 100GHS so they could buy new electricity. Indeed this seemed to work and soon Abdul brought me to the office for a meeting with Jannik from TwB. Sadly we managed to miss each other three times at the streets, due to bad internet connection and thus no communication. Eventually I went out to buy airtime at a telecel stand, because I was fed up. Unfortunately a creep on a motorbike used the opportunity to hit on me, he wanted me to say "I love you" in his language, after telling me, he loved me, which I did not appreciate. I answered "only to my boyfriend" and wiggled my left hand, which is the hand I always wear rings on. The guy did not understand what I said and with a look at his greasy smile between the missing teeth, I rethought and decided to pull the ultimate man-repellant card and replied "only to my husband" with again, wiggling my hand.
Abdul the loyal soul, soon picked me up, after I fled behind a near-by barn and brought me to the office, where he SLEPT while I was having the meeting (I felt so sorry - on the other hand, I was waiting for a router for my apartment for on and a half week now, so this could've been avoided).
Two hours and some answered questions later, Abdul woke up (gladly in time, because I would have felt bad waking him up myself) and brought me home. The hero of the day, truly.

The next day, I started applying some of the things discussed in the meeting and worked a while, but also cleaned my apartment (it looked hideous). This was the first day I didn't feel like dying out of loneliness (dramatic much), after Samuel was gone. At 2pm I met with Precious (at least I was intended to) at his workplace 7Rs fashion. In the middle of the day the electricity had gone off again, by the way. Which is why I was glad being able to flee the heated apartment around noon. Precious came a bit late, so I decided to keep working on my projects and I later also used the opportunity and charged my laptop.

Precious then showed me his designing process of tote bags: first we cut out printed pictures and then laid them out on the bags, on a heat-press that we then pressed down. I could also cut off some strings with a very sharp scissor like utensil and after cooling down I peeled up the foil on the pictures like from a waterbased tattoo. I found the tasks very relaxing, since they didn't involve my brain and it was hawt.
One of Precious' employees also took tons of photos. I uploaded a blog-entry and afterwards Precious brought me home and first to an Indomie place where I got some dinner. We again talked a lot about cultural differences of Germany and Ghana and perceptions of Africa. I think he really enjoyed the conversation and I also found it to be really nice. Even though I still had no lights at home I went inside with a smile.

Children...

21.11.-22.11.2024

Today was the first workshop without Samuel. Abdul wanted to pick me up to the office at 7:30am so I got up early and ate some bread with potentially gone-bad chocolate crème. Abdul appeared at 8:07am on my doorstep. We drove to the office on his motorbike and got our workshop materials: printed out pictures, the frames and the banners. 
Around 9:20 am we loaded everything on a YellowYellow and we started a journey. I sat in the YellowYellow and tried to call my best friend to show her Tamale on video call, but sadly the internet connection is not fond of me, so I ended up sending her videos instead. 
The roads were extremely wobbly and I was shaking a lot. On half the way we took a little extra round, because a woman from a gas station had mistaken us for thieves (a YellowYellow driver hadn’t paid), but when she saw us, the misunderstanding was dissolved. Because of this occurrence we unfortunately lost Abdul who on his motorbike had approached a turmoil of little side-roads between housing tracts. After a quick phone call with my driver (who was wearing gloves and a mask to protect his skin and lungs from the dry air and dust), we found each other again. 
The driver charged me 30cedis and we entered the schoolgrounds of Fatima Farida, a Muslim elementary school. 
Abdul Rahim was already waiting on us for almost an hour and suggested to talk in a meeting about punctuality. The headmaster apparently also hadn’t been there and just arrived, so he definitely also needed that meeting. 
We soon started our workshop after taking some pictures with the children and the picture-frames. 
Today I was going to introduce our organisations: something Samuel had been doing before but since I hadn’t been informed it was an elementary school I spent most of the time of the workshop figuring out how to explain nongovernmental organisation and nonprofit too barely 10-year-olds and younger. 
All in all, I do have to say that this was probably our best workshop experience since the students were extremely attentive and interested. Probably due to their age they were also emotionally invested and when we showed pictures of the Great Pacific Garbage Patch (that is seven times the size of Ghana) some of them gasped and covered their mouths with their hands. Generally, they answered quickly and motivated to questions and it was just a good mood over all. Most of them also were intrigued by the picture of a stranded whale that had eaten plastic, because none of them knew what a whale was. I was happy to enlighten them and showed them pictures on my phone. The students called me Madame Dana and were really nice, one of them told me she had an aunt in Germany who wanted her to come and live with her after school. I told her about the seasons in Germany, but I think she wasn’t too interested and already content with having told me. 
Many called me beautiful (only girls btw) and I returned that compliment and told one of them she had beautiful eyes, she later told me she really liked my eye-colour. 
For me was really important to tell them all that they were beautiful too, because I know that also here in Ghana white people are often the beauty standard, people also sometimes use bleaching crème for their skin. Because of this knowledge and because I also appeared to be some kind of curiosity to them (this time in a good way, because they were so respectful), I found myself in the position of some kind of “role model”, what as an older woman/girl I tend to always be to younger girls in Germany as well, but this time it felt like a bigger responsibility. So, to me it was crucial that I told them they were beautiful, because society to young girls is harsh and I really hoped that (without wanting to sound arrogant) a compliment from me would stick with them. 
When we took pictures together Abdul Rahim asked them not to touch me in the process, what I’d like to add. I really appreciated it as a reaction to what had happened at Paana school. It was really thoughtful, even though I have to say that these young children behaved so well, that I wasn’t uncomfortable at all in their presence. 
And then they proudly showed us the little trees Ummy Relief Foundation had planted with them here. Two students always took care of one tree (and some took more care then others). 
After the workshop I took a YellowYellow to the office, but first of all the driver tried to scam us and then he started demanding my number over and over again, at least ten times, wanting to be my friend and wanting me to take him to Germany. I was extremely uncomfortable as he ignored my “no, I don’t want to give out my number” repeatedly. At the office I gave him the money, he leaned over and said “I told your colleague you should give me at least 35” (meanwhile 30cedis was the only acceptable price and I knew that, Abdul knew that and the driver surely did too). Again, he demanded for my number which I denied him and I nervously called Issahak who came to get our materials out of the YellowYellow and who didn’t notice my voice being an octave too high. I jumped out of the cart and followed him into the office and the driver gave up and left (see how I stayed resilient? Boundary queen I say – it was really not easy though). 
At the office Issahak and I took some rest (recently I’ve been completely down during noon due to the heat). Abdul passed by a while later with his son. As young as he was as destructive, he was also, because he managed to move chairs pretty effectively and focused on the chair Issahak had laid his legs down to sleep. This caused in him waking up in shock several times, which I found hilarious. Abdul and I shared some food and then he had to get going again, but he promised to bring me some Kenki (a maze dough, also wrapped in maze leaf, together with a hot pepper dipping sauce – it’s kind of similar to Fufu that’s why I like it – except Fufu is a softer dough served in soup). I ate almost all of it, even though it was really filling and I had eaten a bit before. Afterwards we then got home and Precious brought me an LED light for my apartment, since the energy would be gone until at least Monday, which was very nice of him. 
On Friday we went to the Darol Hardis school. Again, Abdul picked me up a bit late, we got to the office and we found a YellowYellow driver that charged 30GHS even though the distance was quite short. The campus was quite large and the students’ ages varied. Of course, they screamed after me and gathered at the windows. 
The headmaster and the teachers joked around with Abdul since they had already been working together on previous projects like the tree planting. They then also showed us the trees that were protected by nets spun around sticks in the ground. Some of them had been attacked by goats and thus had to be protected. 
The students gathered for the workshop and they were extremely loud and inattentive. Because the sun was also shining on their heads we decided to split the workshop into two classes and our team also split. Still the students stayed inattentive for the whole time. Also, they didn’t manage to subtract 1862 from 2024 and when being asked to name one of the six Rs one student replied with “plastics”. 
We then wanted to present the metal cage, but it turned out that it wasn’t ready yet, so we decided to return on Monday. 
We decided to go to the office by motorbike and first of all, Rahim and I almost fell asleep. (As I said the heat was getting more and more exhausting). 
Issahak and I talked about a project about Cyberbullying he wanted to implement next year and then somewhen in the evening we went home again. 
 


Greensleaves < Beansleaves

23.11.-24.11.24 

On Saturday I went grocery shopping and made myself some food. After taking lunch I went to Precious’ shop to use the wifi and fan to work, since my electricity wouldn’t be working until at least Monday and my internet also stayed bad. 
We were both working on Excel and Precious taught me how he used it for his business. I myself was working on a project plan for my own project and I had never really used Excel before. Still we worked for hours – even though it drove me crazy. 
In between we were interrupted by a few kids sneaking up. One explained: “This is a Siliminga.” (In a tone of voice that I would use to say “wow this is a giraffe” – very impressed). They all gathered next to me and watched me work until Precious told them off, saying I was also a human and they should not stare at me like that. 
He then let me try a local vegetarian food out of beans leaves that I enjoyed a lot and that took a close second spot on my imaginary Ghana favourite food list. He also let me try a Malta Chocolate drink that was kind of questionable but not too bad. I drank it while observing three girls that were being trained at the neighbouring shop get a punishment: since they didn’t listen they had to stand at the street side and wave every passing vehicle and they were laughing out of embarrassment. 
In the evening, I then had a meeting regarding a project and Precious ran some errands or something. He provided me an extra fan what I really appreciated and then I waited for him to come back and he brought me home. 
I was very satisfied with the amount of work I had done. 
On Saturday morning I got visited shortly by Abdul who I requested new water from and from Precious. He wanted to visit me after his church service but I hadn’t been aware that it took from 8am to 1pm! When he arrived he still wore his traditional clothes and then decided to change and take me to the office where we had another meeting. In this meeting sadly only Marja attended and she also couldn’t stay long since she had received a surprise family visit, but luckily we got everything done (for short explanation, Marja is one of the most important members of EndPlasticSoup and she got me to Ghana). 
After that Precious wanted to introduce me to another traditional dish with beansleaves soup that is called TZ and typical in the North of Ghana and I really enjoyed it again. Especially because the soup had slimy okru in it and had lots of fibre-like texture (it’s really nice when you are eating with your hands and you can feel different fibres and textures, also it was dark so this was my whole experience of the food and I would have enjoyed it less if it didn’t feel so interesting). 
We ate at a hidden store in my area and when we arrived a girl that worked there brought us chairs, a table and a torch against mosquitos, but she was too shy to talk in my presence. Later then I gave her five cedis and told her that she didn’t have to be shy anymore (it didn’t work, but hopefully the money made her a bit happy). 
After that Precious again brought me home with his motorbike. I have to say that I start feeling more and more comfortable on these things even though they are arguably a safety hazard. We had talked a lot about Precious’ experiences in Germany – like joining a football team for example and about the friendly people he met and I really felt happy that evening. Even though I have to say that having no electricity started giving me health problems with my circulation and so I was really tired in the evening. 
 
   


Get in loser, we're going shopping! - Regina George

25.11.-26.11.24

 On Monday there was a lot to do for me. First, I had an important phone call and then I went to see Precious again and we decided to go to the city to check out material prices for our project. In the city we first went to the post office where I finally send out my letters to my boyfriend and then we also visited the immigration office where we learned that I could easily renew my visa if I had my flight at hand. Afterwards we then went to surprise Precious’ father by saying hello. He was really happy and showed me on a map of Ghana where he and his family originally came from and I pointed to all the places I had already been at. He got visited by a friend of his who was wearing a hat and a leather jacket and he was very charming towards me and gifted me something like a donut to what Precious’ father also added peanuts (groundnuts as you say here) to. His friend also told me I should get myself a Ghanaian guy since they were hotblooded and we (as in German/white people) were cold, which I found very funny, because I immediately made dreamy eyes at the mentioning of the word “cold”. (Don’t get me wrong, I don’t like freezing, but a bit less than 39°C every day would be nice.) 
We said goodbye and proceeded on our way to the market where we got ourselves the information we needed and I also had the possibility to dig through a pile of secondhand-clothing (yes, thrifting is a hobby of mine), at the end I purchased two t-shirts for 10GHS each, which came to a total of ca 1,25 euros. One of them has the adidas-logo on it and I honestly can’t tell if it’s fake but I just assume it is. 
Precious and I finished the day with some juice we had started drinking earlier and left in his backpack at the place where we bought it (so the employees wouldn’t see that we didn’t finish it). In the end I was so exhausted that I fell straight into my bed, because I was so exhausted. 
On Tuesday morning I went with Abdul and Abdul Rahim to the Darol Hardis school to deliver the missing waste cage. We took some photos, exchanged some words and afterwards Abdul dropped me at Precious’ shop, where I (even though he has fans) suffocated a bit in the heat. I spend a lot of time on my phone, since I was not feeling the best and just laid around on his sofa. 
In the late afternoon I worked a bit, since I had an important phone call and Precious turned on the TV after I was done and I watched a bit (it was some American movie with disgusting monsters and unnecessary fight-scenes but I was invested nonetheless). 

 


Just keep swimming - Dory

27.11.-28.11.24

This noon a miracle happened: I got my electricity back! So far I had been charging my powerbank at my neighbour's place that was the only one with electricity, but now I could do it on my own!A little miracle.


Over the day I was working with Precious on one upcoming EndPlasticSoup-Project (stay tuned!).
In the evening I then decided to finally go swimming, Precious accompanied me, but he took some calls for work and watched my bags while I was swimming. I had lots of fun and swam for one and a half hours, doing rounds in every swimming style and diving. I even stretched - I was taking this shit seriously.
Afterwards I was really craving pizza and my arms hurt (because I literally did sports for the first time in a whiiiile and that's also when I realized how weak my muscles had actually gotten, because what do you mean my arms hurt after swimming?).
So Precious took me to a place called Oasis and we enjoyed some vegetable pizza, which made me really happy, even though it still hat more oil/fat than my regular pizza. I also withdrew some money and that was when I realized that the euro/cedi currency was changing, good for Ghana, bad for me. It was really drastic, dropping fast within just days.
 Still without water and electricity I prepared for another exhausting night, but Precious talked to my neighbour Divine (turns out, he was familiar with his father) and organized some water for me for the next morning so I gained hope.
In the evening I of course showered and then went to bed and then the next day another miracle happened!
In the morning my neighbour Divine called me and I received my water, he even helped me pour it into my big green bin (because I was too weak). Loretta (his daughter) then also provided me two small bins, since my bin couldn't fit all the gallons.
Afterwards the whole entry way to my apartment looked like a mess. The dust always gets in and as it mixes with water it leaves huge stains on the floor. I decided to clean later (since I was lazy), but one hour later I got running water! Out of the pipe! I was so happy and immediately motivated to go swimming again (because then I would be able to shower without a bucket and although both works the idea sounded like a special treat in my head, also because it's inconvenient for washing my hair to use buckets). 
Precious and I arrived at the pool late (we checked out another one, but it was very shallow) and tried to set up a contract that would allow me to go swimming regularly for a lower price. 
As I went to change into my swimming suit I discovered that I had gotten my period, so all my plans were screwed. Completely annoyed I informed Precious that we needed to find something else to do and he made up an excuse why we were leaving early for the employees (very mindful of him, because I certainly didn't have the nerve after finding myself temporarily deprived of my first and only real freetime activity).
We then decided to go grocery shopping instead and bought some pawpaw and pineapple that we enjoyed together. We also passed by a huge pile of watermelon at the streetside and Precious explained to me, that you could try a small square of the fruit before you would decide if you wanted to buy it. Immediately a man in traditional Dagomba attire (the same clothing our team had gifted to Samuel) pulled up with his motorbike and asked the seller to cut out a small sample out of a watermelon for him to try. He slurped in the piece of water melon, nodded satisfied, ordered the seller to put it in a bag for him and disappeared just as fast as he had come on his motorbike in the dust of the street.

Watermelon Sugar

29.11.-02.12.24

On Friday nothing much happened, I was feeling weak due to my period, so I pretty much just relaxed. Then in the evening Precious came over and brought a card-game “Skyjo action” which we then proceeded to play for hours. 
The next day I also didn’t do a lot, but in the late afternoon I decided to meet Precious at his premises, where I wrote a bit on my blog. 
Abdul who had wanted to meet me came over and we discussed the plans for the following weeks, including an online campaign for the upcoming elections on 7th December. Ummy Relief Foundation in cooperation with other organizations wanted to promote peaceful votes to first voters and I myself should also provide a picture and message. 
Precious and I then went to deliver one of his orders to an Evangelic church. He had sewn several dresses for members of the choir and packaged them in free little tote bags that could later be used to carry a bible (and to push the no-more-plastic-bags agenda). We arrived in the middle of the choir rehearsals and even though the speakers were way too loud the singing was really good. I complimented a female solo singer and after listening for a while, Precious and I made our way. 
I was strongly craving fufu (I don’t know why, but for some reason fufu is very comforting to me although I probably only ate it four times – it is probably because I really like the soft and gooey texture of the dough and the warm soup, it’s kind of satisfying to eat). For that Precious showed me a hidden place, that was located behind what looked like a backyard and someone’s diy-project road. 
There was an open building with colourful lights and loud music, LEDs in the trees and a really big screen that showed football-matches. It was very weird seeing a whole stadium of almost only white people on screen while being the pretty much only white person in the area, I thought. This experience really made me think about the importance of representation in media and to me was a physical example of how weird it is, that BIPOC are still heavily underrepresented in most of Western TV landscapes. I’m learning something new every day. 
On the way back after enjoying the fufu (with Light soup), I suddenly spotted a bubble tea sign on the road side. I was completely surprised and Precious pulled over so I could buy some. For those who don’t know: Bubble tea is my personal guilty pleasure – it’s expensive but I love it. The place was a tiny as a shoe-box but beautifully decorated, very instagramable. I bought a small Matcha flavoured bubble tea and couldn’t await coming home and trying it. Precious was a bit startled over the whole situation, since the concept of bubble tea and the store were new to him. 
Almost home, we suddenly heard Abdul calling us on the motorbike. He had just bought watermelon for his family and gifted us two large pieces, I balanced them in one hand and my bubble tea in the other and then we proceeded on our way, laughing about the image I gave (a siliminga with two big pieces of watermelon in her hand, on a motorbike). 
At the apartment I showed Precious how to drink a bubble tea (you have to poke a hole through the top, with the sharp end of the straw) and cut the watermelon. The bubble tea tasted amazing and not even sweet! I was in heaven. The matcha flavour tasted just as it should and the bubbles were a bit hard, but that probably meant that they were self-made and I admire that, because creating large amounts takes a ton of time. 
The watermelon also was incredibly juicy and we were really grateful for it. Precious and I then proceeded to play a bit Skyjo (I always lose against him). 
On Sunday I accompanied Precious to church. It was Thanksgiving and so the church service was special and there would be an auction. We arrived, I gathered some attention as always (I again was the only white person) and the service began. And it took ages. Really, since it was a special occasion, it was a long service. It even had a break to reassemble. Precious was helping with the auction and also sold some tote bags with angels on them, that he had made yesterday. Meanwhile one of the church servants came up to me and invited me to choir rehearsals on Monday. 
At this point we had already spent four hours at church. The rising temperatures as we approached noon were hurting my head and then the reverent announced a one-hour-long prayer for the elections. At this point Precious took me outside to get some fresh air. He made me try some local drink, egg with pepper and showed me the school on the church ground. As I was still not feeling better and the point of service where new people were introduced (which was the only reason why we hadn’t already left) just wouldn’t come, Precious decided for us to leave. 
He then brought me to his home where he invited me for late lunch/early dinner, which he prepared. While he did that, I laid a bit k.o. on his couch and watched a movie about Jesus on TV and tried to play a game with a ball with another small ball in it, that I had to bring through a labyrinth by turning the big ball (I failed). 
Precious prepared some tofu, fried egg, yams, eggplant-stew (I loved it) with eggs and plantain for us. I really loved the food, but after eating when his neighbour came and said hi, I started to develop a stomach ache. At some point I had to flee the conversation to use Precious’ landladies’ restroom (this took ages, because she wanted to clean it first). I assume I just tried too many different foods that day. 
His landlady even prepared some jollof for me, which was really sweet but I had seen enough food that day. 
Precious was really sorry, but I told him it was okay (this can always happen to me here, not his fault) and brought me home, where I took a dear old coal pill and also had a meeting. 
On Monday then, I took some rest in the morning and then went with Precious to the Ummy Relief Foundation office where we discussed some project topics with Abdul and I looked into some receipts for another project. After that Precious and I sped to the immigration office where I applied for my visa-extension. Sadly, the last time I was there they didn’t tell me all the documents we needed, so I had to rush to a near-by printing shop and take a passport sized picture while filling out the appliance form. 15 minutes before closing we rushed inside and provided the documents. 
As a reward for our last-minute teamwork Precious and I enjoyed some ice-cream. I got the perfect coconut ice cream, that had lots of coconut pieces in it and was really milky and rich. 
Sadly, I was feeling stomach pain again, but still I wanted to shortly visit the choir rehearsals, so we visited Precious’ church again. There I again had to use the restroom and then I found out that the guy from church service had told me the wrong time. Precious had an important phone call and I waited for him laying on a church bank, after being swarmed by mosquitos when I had tried waiting outside. 
Earlier that day I had had a small mental breakdown over my damaged hair and sent an aid call in the German volunteer whatsapp group. And because of that I would meet a few volunteers that were traveling through Tamale tomorrow, to cut my hair. 


Friends

03.12.-05.12.2024

On Tuesday morning I was very excited, I had even cleaned. Soon it was 11 am and the German volunteers arrived at the junction close to my house. They were already buying tomatoes to cook tomato sauce for lunch and apparently the one boy group got also asked if he would exchange two of the girls for one motorbike. Interesting. Two of the girls were wearing braids and locks what was a true eye-catcher. We greeted each other and made our way to my apartment. On the way Abdul stopped by and I think he was very happy to see me have guests. Later he also told me I could take the day off to spend with my new friends. That made me very happy but was also unexpected, because for some reason I have problems taking a day off of work. I feel like I need to work at least a bit every day and not having any real social life kind of doesn't give me no other option too. So when Abdul told me that it felt a bit like he was breaking a spell I had put upon myself lol.
Anyway, we arrived at my apartment. First I gave a little tour what impressed the others, because well I have a whole apartment to myself while they share apartments of the same or smaller size with their guest families. Since we were six people we split up and three of them started cooking spaghetti whilst two others took me outside to cut my hair.
Because I really wanted to meet some people my age I had invited them to cook food at my place in exchange for cutting my damaged hair. This now took some time because I have a lot of time. At some point the friend of a neighbour even came by and sat down to watch while he was waiting for the neighbour. 
I really enjoyed learning more about their experiences. We were done just in time for lunch. Some of the spaghetti was baked - they all said it tasted like cheese. We ate and introduced ourselves to each other (since we didn't properly do that yet) and then they committed an atrocity (TW if you're Italian) and put soy sauce on the spaghetti. But since they insisted to do the dishes I got over it.
We then decided to go to a café that was nearby my place (I honestly didn't ever have the idea to go to even google search for a café), it was a bit overpriced but the food and drinks were amazing. After more than an hour we then went to the city center where they wanted to do some shopping. We went to the New Market and the girl's showed off their amazing haggling skills, they managed to bring prices down under 50% and I purchased a really cute cami top. I then showed them a place at the old market that I knew because of Precious - where you could get clothing for only ten cedis. It was a table filled with a big pile of clothing and we dug through everything. Later I even found a low-waist flared jeans (totally not my style, but for 20 cedis it's okay to experiment, plus one of my pants broke so I needed a new one).
After all it felt like a very nice girl's day. We headed back to the hotel where they were staying. I had a pretty deep conversation with one of the girls that felt really good. The group then bought themselves food and I stayed until 10pm. We were chit-chatting and playing hand-clapping-games. 
Finally I was accompanied to a YellowYellow. Since the driver expected all of us to go, he said he wouldn't bring me the whole way for 5cedis and instead brought me to the YellowYellow gathering point at the market. To be honest, I was really nervous being outside alone this late at night. But the driver was a true gentleman and found me a driver and waited for me to enter his YellowYellow before he drove away, he didn't even charge me at all.
Of course I still had to wait a while before other passengers were found and it was a very intense experience. Some men were arguing a few meters away, a handful of sellers was still outside, but driver ran around as if stung by a bee to find more people. It was warm and the city was unusually quiet (not totally quiet but definitely less loud than in daylight). My senses were sharpened. It was this slight consciousness of potential danger, while being relatively save since I was being watched by some passengers that waited with me, that made me feel weirdly alive.
Anyway, we started driving and I updated Precious via WhatsApp about every step of the journey (he had just been online) to calm myself, while my battery was slowly dying. I arrived safely at home.

The next day I was meeting the others again, since they would leave to Mole on Thursday. But first, right after getting up, I had to avert a whole crisis at work. We needed to recalculate our budget and I panicked a little. I tried calling Samuel but he was holding a workshop and quite unpleased that I had disturbed him several times (I suggested to just turn off his notifications next time). Fortunately we were able to sort things out quickly. Nonetheless I was a bit freaked out and it was a terrible way to start the day.
We met again at the café from the day before and ate some waffles etc. Whilst doing that we had some interesting conversations about racism in language and our perception of our volunteerism. 
Afterwards we then compared Spotify-Wrappeds and took a YellowYellow to see the culture center. There I had a quick phone call and joined in later, but I didn't really miss a lot, it was like a smaller version of the Accra art-market, except the sellers weren't as annoying. (In Accra they would basically take your arm to guide you to their shop and sell overpriced but pretty things.)
We again went to the market, but only half of us were motivated to shop, so I went with two others to the clothing piles again, except we walked and were a bit too exhausted when we arrived. So after a short digging for clothes we made our way back and joined the others. I had a long and great conversation with Marie (she is the one that I texted first). 
After that we went buying Indomie (the woman that sold these started the fire for the pot buy throwing in some plastic, which made me kind of skeptical). 
The two girls with the braids came outside wearing headwraps that I really liked and purchased Kenkey and a watermelon. I also bought a new cap at a stand, that I had been eyeing for days.
We again ate dinner at the roof terrace and spotted a whole big group of white people from above that made us shout down at them excitedly (I hadn't seen such a large group of white people since arriving in Ghana). Then suddenly also another white dude our age entered the roof and trying to find out if he was German we called him in typical German names like Nils.
The one boy in the group and I then went to "buy some water" next to him (actually we just wanted to talk to him) and he basically reached out to us as if we were a life vest. We found out he came from the Netherlands and also wanted to leave to Mole tomorrow, also he had flown to Tamale by plane this day. We connected him to the group and continued with dinner.
Funnily Abdul had a business dinner with the boss of the Pamepi-organization (the one where we met the Chief) at that exact spot, one table behind us, so I asked him to take me home (we live close to each other) on his moto and said goodbye to the others.

On Thursday I didn't see the group again, I think they left early in the morning together with the Dutch guy.
We had our last workshop this morning. Abdul brought me to the office and I took a YellowYellow. It was a very long way that went through regions of the city I had never seen. There I met a Rotaract member that would help with the workshop since Rahim and Okra both weren't available. 
I asked to use the restroom and the headmistress gave a key to a little girl that sprinted forward to bring me to some roofless stalls at the school-ground. Apparently I got the fancy locked one for the staff, but still there was basically just a hole at ground level, not too comfortable, but possible. When I left the stall half the school's students had gathered in front of the door and they all followed me and shouted something that I didn't understand but it included siliminga. This was such an extremely weird situation. A few dozen primary students waiting for me to use the toilet, it was very icky.
We proceeded to hold the workshop. It went quite well, but the students weren't too attentive with some of the youngest falling asleep on the floor. But at some point I think we all wanted to just get it over with.
I let Abdul take the photos of presenting the cage and the school's headmaster had a YellowYellow and drove me to the office. There I gave out project money and collected bills. 
Abdul then brought me to Precious' shop were one of his employees took my measurements for a dress he wanted to gift me. When that was done we headed home, since Precious had bought me a SIM-card for my router and bought a data bundle. It took so ridiculously long for the data to arrive that we had to hurry back to his shop, since I had an important meeting to attend.
Samuel presented our project to a collective of high-rank TwB members. And I can proudly announce that we reached 40 000 students around Ghana.
I'm a bit sad though, that he didn't include me one bit into the conversation even though I did voice my interest to be part of the presentation repeatedly. It's sad because I did always look up to him and learned a lot while we were traveling together, that I can now use in further project work. But maybe the fact that I was still learning and thus not the best help to him made me exclude me. I don't know and I don't need to think about it, because either way I'm proud of myself and he can be proud of himself as well and one presentation developed out of a tight schedule isn't the end of the world. He did well and I think I did well too and even though having finished the project takes a huge weight off my shoulders it also makes me nostalgic and takes away a former stability. Anyway right now I'm just glad that everything worked out so well and that our team members and us could make such a big impact. It is truly a privilege having the possibility to support a change and to share one vision with creative and ambitioned people around the world. And it is one I don't ever want to give up. Working on RecycleUp! gave me back a hope to combat real-life problems that I had almost lost in Europe and it showed me that political interest and activism are never pointless - I think you just have to find a way to channel it. And I hope that my experience can give back some of that hope to you too.

Election

06.12.-09.12.2024

On Friday morning I was working from home and suddenly found a Spotify Premium free trial offer on my account. After some consideration, I decided to just go for it. The whole of November and half of December I hadn't really been able to listen to any music and it indeed took away some of the happiness in my life. This really isn't supposed to be promotion for Spotify - I know about their working conditions - I just desperately wanted to be able to listen to music again.This was also where I realized that meeting the other volunteers had really altered my perception of my situation. I felt more enabled to take things in my hands and I wanted to actively do things that gave me comfort and were fun. 


I decided to go swimming in the afternoon, but after having worked the whole day, my motivation slowly shrank down. So when Precious came by to pick me up in the late afternoon I informed him, that I wasn't motivated anymore, but just in case packed my stuff. 
He then took me with him on his motorbike to go to his shop. The dress I had came in for measurements for the day before, was ready! 
Precious had chosen the black fabric with white and bright yellow accents and one of his employees had sewn it just within a day! I found this to be extremely impressive.
At first I was a bit nervous, because the cut was very unusual to me and a midi dress (I'm kind of self-conscious about my legs). But when I put it on I quite literally looked like a doll - it looked really adorable.
Everyone in the shop loved it and many pictures were taken. I asked to take the dress in a tiny bit at the waist and while Precious' employee did that, a mother with three children entered the shop: one baby, she carried on her back, one older girl that seemed confident, but didn't speak and a boy - assumingly the middle child - that had insane amounts of confidence. He was basically overtaking the whole shop, pretending everything belonged to him and joking around. 
When I stepped out of the small room, where I had changed back into the dress everyone was amazed. The small boy gave me a thumbs up, accompanied by a "this looks beautiful!", while - for some reason - laying on his back on the floor. He probably was the most confident child I met here and I found it amusing. He also didn't want to leave the shop and had to repeatedly be called by his mother, until he gave in and made snake moves on his belly on the floor directed to the door (what was it with this child and the floor?).
Afterwards I was in a really good mood and, since it was already dark, I asked Precious if we could have some Fufu. On the way to the place with the huge screen I was chanting and "dancing" on his motorbike.
We enjoyed our Fufu, again there was a football match with thousands of white people that made me think about representation and we even split the bill (feels like home).
On the way back I again was singing (I had APT. stuck in my head) and Precious was really happy to see me in such a good mood. We then collected my dress and brought home his employee who had sewn it for me.
On the speed-bumps she would almost unnoticeable touch my waist to hold herself and I noticed how this tiny proof of trust meant a lot to me. I really miss hugging my friends. It's crazy, but this tiny little touch that made her feel safer on the motorbike, gave me some odd feeling of comfort.

On Saturday there was election day, which meant for me: no stepping out of the house. I worked from morning until the middle of the night and in between, Precious came by to walk with me to get some food. Originally we had wanted to watch a movie together, but he was way too excited for the election results. (Side note: this was the first time I stepped out in shorts - I do not recommend, but I was determined to stay comfortable anyway). He went home straightly, but even on the next day the results weren't in.

The next day I also didn't want to step out because of the still open elections (no results). In the morning Abdul came to my place together with his son and delivered me some vegetables from his shop that were about to be devoured. I gave his son a biscuit and soon after, they left again in a good mood. At this point people had already declared the election's winner, without the official results being in.
In the late afternoon, Precious came to pick me up to his place where we watched Blues Brothers together.
Precious doesn't usually watch movies (as many people here) so he oftentimes almost fell asleep and asked me to hit him if that happened. When something broke (that happens often in Blues Brothers) or somebody would get hurt (also often, but more subtle), he would always be very concerned, but when music started playing he would start dancing in his seat. Watching his reactions was actually very entertaining. 
At some point his neighbour came in and said hi. He also made a Netflix-and-chill-joke which I really didn't appreciate, but else it was a nice encounter.
After the movie half-asleep Precious brought me home and honestly I wasn't sure if he had really liked the movie, but apparently so, since he thanked me. Also he was admittedly proud of himself, because he didn't fall asleep during the movie and that was the first time he watched a movie in one setting. 

On Monday I first started working from home. But later it was time to get my visa extension and my passport at the immigration office. 
Precious brought me there and well, we found out that there was a continuous mistake of registering German people as "Dutch" that was pretty funny. Honestly I blame the English, I mean who sees the word "Deutsch" and thinks "I'll call this German" and then the word "Nederlands" and thinks "and this must be Dutch"?
Anyway, everything went well and we returned home. I also tried a Baobab drink when taking lunch. All the time I felt a weird tension in the air, assuming it was because of the yet not announced voting results. Some man even screamed at me. Over all I felt the mood in the city was quite heated (huahahaha) and gave room to impulsiveness, that could easily target me since I was standing out. 
Because it was way too hot outside I then started feeling dizzy. Precious had to buy some fabrics and I just suffocated in a chair under the fan, until he was done.
After having done all the chores, we then returned to Precious' shop, where we finally wanted to watch the announcement of the election's result. There I slept for like half an hour out of exhaustion. When I woke up the election announcement just started. Everyone waited excitedly in their seats.
Soon the results where out and now Ghana has its first female vice-president.
This for me was the most exciting news. I hope this woman will do an amazing job and build the path for many more women to come. I'm just happy, that finally a woman has the possibility to shape the future of her country and I hope she will make her people proud. May she not only be the first, but one of many.
There is a lot of progress going on in the world, just as I write this and just as you read this. Isn't it amazing?